Author: gardenspast123

I’m a Craft Gardener with over 20 years of hands-on experience in professional gardening and soft landscaping. As the internet continues to reshape gardening advice, forums, and consultancy services, horticultural knowledge is constantly evolving—making it more important than ever to share proven techniques and alternative approaches to pest control, plant diseases, and weed management. Even the smallest adjustments to garden aspect, soil preparation, planting, or pruning can have a major impact on a plant’s health, vigour, and long-term lifespan. Through my gardening blog and online advice, I aim to educate, motivate, and inspire gardeners of all levels—from complete beginners to experienced green-fingered enthusiasts.

Winter shrubs

by gardenspast123, posted in Flowers, Horticulture, Shrubs

It is a fallacy that the garden goes to sleep at winter time. There are so many shrubs that are specifically chosen for this seasonal interest, in fact non descript for most of the year until they come into their own.

Camellia sasanqua is one of a few that have autumn flowering properties. They do prefer to be in full sun, acidic soil and with that well watered. These are not drought tolerant. They offer a strong fragrance throughout late summer to winter. Various colours and various flowerheads. Do prune after they have flowered since they can become leggy otherwise.

Mahonia x media ‘winter sun’ is an evergreen and another example of a shrub that can become leggy. Cut out branches that are unruly and seem to have no place. Mahonia do prefer a spot in full sun although like some shelter too so against a wall or fence would be fine. This will flower from November onwards. In good soil, Mahonia’s do thrive. Even apply some organic matter to keep it nourished.

Lonicera x purpusii is a honeysuckle climber with strongly scented flowers in winter. It may be bare stemmed but the aroma it gives makes it’s presence known. Beneficial insects are attracted its flowerheads so provides them with food. It is a sun loving plant, it will provide you with a strong scented and delicate flowers through to February.

Hamamelis x intermedia is a shrub that will also loose its leaves when it flowers in late winter and on. The flowers are very fragrant in the main although one namely ‘Diane’ has a show of flowers but little scent. They do spread quite widely so give them room to develop. The plant is a hardy suggestion and often will not be phased by a cold spell.

Daphne Bholua is a medium sized evergreen that will flower during the coldest of spells. It will provide fragrant flowers in late winter followed by berries. It does need to be in a sunny spot but will provide frgrance, foliage and flowers though the year. It is relatively robust as long as not very exposed and has some shelter.

Callicarpa bodinieri ‘profusion’ whilst it offers flowers in mid summer, the vibrancy of its berries demands that it is mentioned as an excerpt. It is decidious but before the leaves are lost they turn a red. It is very hardy and will withstand severe conditions. It is good in most soils and generally easy to look after. The habit is not dense so a cluster of them is needed to make any impact. It is generally not tolerant in alkaline soils and discolouration of the leaves will indicate this.

Sweet Smelling Shrubs

by gardenspast123, posted in Flowers, Horticulture, Shrubs

To have fragrance in a garden is a certainty. Your Lavender, Roses and Nepeta are all worthy candidates for bringing that aroma to your patio in the warmer months. In addition there are shrubs that provide a sweet smelling scent coupled with annuals like sweet peas to relax your senses.

Philadelphus (Mock Orange) A decidious shrub offering a scent of citrus. It attracts beneficial insects and flowers in spring. A favourite amongst growers is P. ‘Belle Etoile’. The more common variety P. ‘coronarious’ is relatively low maintenance and can cope with neglect. Fully hardy too. Periodically, it would benefit from being cut back when the new buds appear to minimise legginess and improve blooms. Cut back top growth to 4 or 5 leaf nodes.

Choisya (Mexican Orange Blossom) An evergreen with attractive leaves. It does tolerate most conditions, although it is fine in shade it would prefer a full sun aspect. These are very easy to look after. The plant is hardy and will withstand being left. C. dewitteana ‘ Aztec Pearl’ is a variety that will flower in early summer but by dead heading a second show is possible. A more sheltered position is better than exposed as they can be prone to damage in high winds.

Choisya ternata sundance A half hardy alternative. It is usually preferred in a neutral soil or slightly acidic/alkaline but certainly not too much. It will not do well in extreme conditions. It is generally low maintenance other than removing unwanted growth.

Daphne Odora A semi evergreen shrub. It provides interest all year round. It flowers in succession between spring and summer. It is highly scented and hosts attractive foliage. D. transatlantica ‘eternal fragrance’ a compact habit suitable for smaller areas.

Skimmia japonica ‘Rubella’ An evergreen which prefers to be in full sun although it can tolerate shade. It is low maintenance and provides berries for wildlife until spring and the flowers open. It is worth bearing in mind this is male and only when coupled with the opposite sex will S. japonica ‘nymans’ produce berries. A common problem that is known to these species is the yellowing of the leaf. It is an indication that the soil is too alkaline.

In the winter months Chimonathus praecox ‘wintersweet’ provides a highly scented decidious shrub. This needs to be in full sun in a sheltered position but relatively versatile in the conditions it grows in.

Sarcococca (Christmas Box) A winter flowering shrub. A hardy specimen but in an immature state provide a little more protection. Ideally in a shaded position or a little sheltered in the ground.

Winter Hardiness

by gardenspast123, posted in Horticulture

As the evenings are drawing in and the colder nights closer, some shrubs will need more thought than others. The hardy plants may suffer foliage damage or none at all. In areas of exposure the plant might suffer some wind damage and stems need cutting cleanly. Evergreens in extreme cold might lose leaves but they will survive and go generally unscathed. – 5 and under.

Photinias will provide autumn colour, Cotoneasters and Berberis (Barberry bushes) offering berries for wildlife. Virburnums are good as evergreens. In particularly cold areas they will lose their leaves but survive. These shrubs are good with pollution too. Camellias can be resilient to winter conditions although in severe situations they would prefer some protection.

The half hardy shrubs or near to perennials like Heuchera can be cut to the base once spent. The new growth when dormant might get frost bitten but in spring it will reappear as new. Lavender, although not a true perennial can classed as such and a shrub. It’s growth is above ground but often appears to look asleep at winter time. One specimen that is truly hardy and can withstand conditions others can’t are Cyclamens, providing autumn colour before spring. At times some specimens may need shelter by moving to a wall or coveted space along with added protection such a fleece.

Salvia’s are often perfectly ok in mild conditions although may need some insulation. Hydrangeas often suffer from leaf scorching and damage may occur, but in spring the shrub is cut to the first three 3 or 4 leaf nodes so that any dead material is cut off. This will help the plant not get too woody too. Geraniums will withstand some freezing conditions but not for a prolonged period. There may be some casualties but a good practice is to covet them with a fleece overnight in cold spells and then remove in the morning so the sun can get them in the day.

If there is dense foliage that is not decomposing, if it matters not aesthetically like with Hydrangea, Bergenia’s and Buddleja’s – leave it on until spring.

The tender plants are those that will withstand cold periods but not freezing. This includes cold snaps but not for a prolonged period. These may require indoor protection and after the frost has finished be kept outside. This usually is -1 to 5.

Most Roses are very robust while others need a little protection. Often applying mulch around the crown can insulate it and it retains its warmth. This can be said for all plants though and they will benefit from the nutrients of the manure or straw. Any good organic matter. Never put weeds in your compost. These will rot down but of course you will end up re-distributing your weeds!

Often in these conditions it’s not only the cold that will thwart the plant but the sun and wind which in turn dehydrates the leaves. This does the most damage. There are products called “anti-desiccants” that will help the plants retain its water. After a fall of snow, plants are said to benefit – it cocoons them.

Cordylines, often in containers, are a must to put in a sheltered position. They take very little to get damaged and can often be reduced to mulch.

A lot of plants of the tender variety will be perennials which will have been cut back and in their hibernation state. So containerised plants moved to a coveted spot is the key. By the house with that residual warmth seeping through!

Slug Resistant Plants

by gardenspast123, posted in Horticulture

The weather has a massive effect on the gravity of a slug invasion. The ground is wet and a rainy night is sure to invite the unwanted pests for a midnight chomp.

Slugs prefer cool, dark and moist conditions and thrive all year round. They hide under decomposing leaves and organic matter. The predators of slugs do keep numbers down but in recent years these numbers have diminished from the lack of biodiversity. A milder climate means they survive the hibernation period more often than not. The use of pesticides may keep weeds or surplus growth in abeyance but also kills off predatory species that would reduce the reproduction. The uniformity of gardens plays an important factor, some gardens can be too clear of debris thereby decreasing the number of predatory species.

With this in mind, plants can unnecessarily be decimated without biological control or organic deterrent. A sustainable and ethical method may be to plant species that repel the slug community. A slug is very effective at breaking down organic matter. They play a role in the soil ecosystem but not welcome when it affects your border. Hostas and Marigolds are favourites with these gastropods, the texture of the leaf is quite significant in the attractiveness. Often leaves that are bitter, more rigid and less soft can deter them. Equally anything with bristles or small hairs. Woody plants usually are low risk, it is usually the soft, immature leaves that they prey on. Ornamental grasses are often a good choice Carex, Miscanthus, Phormiums and alike. Euphorbias (Spurge) are poisonous by their sap and for slugs they have a bitter taste. Hellebores are equally effective but for a different reason. Their waxy leaves means they get left alone. Stachys byzantina (Lambs ears) too but for their fur. Nepeta (Catmint) emits a strong scent that slugs stay clear of and this can be said for other strong smelling herbs. Rosemary, Lavender, Sage and Oregano to mention a few. The scent in smaller plants seems to be a deciding factor when discouraging slugs. Lily of the valley, Alliums and for their scent. Begonias too for their waxy leaves.

The maturity of the plant can be relevant. Often in their early years Delphiniums, Primroses and Dahlias can be tempting and as they grow older they lose the attraction. Often this can be achieved by transplanting in a cloche or coveted areas and harden of what has been propagated. This is good practice for hardiness in temperature but also in the battle against slug destruction. The leaves as they become older are less palatable.

Irritant Sap

by gardenspast123, posted in Horticulture

Some plants secrete a sap or fluid from their stems or leaves. At times these may cause an allergic reaction and therefore any maintenance, the use of gloves is advised.

Euphorbia crucifolia – Spurge – an interesting effect from spring to summer, an evergreen that is quick growing and perfect in well drained soil. It has attractive greenish yellow flowerheads. It has a common variety that can become quite invasive, Euphorbia des garrigues can become overwhelmingly settled and you have to entertain the milky sap too.

Hedera – An evergreen and a climber. The cultivated forms offer attractive variegated leaves, berries for winter and a stable habit for wildlife. Hedera helix – English Ivy and a cultivar Hedera colchica (Suphur Heart) it has been argued that Ivy doesn’t really smother other plants or trees – I disagree. By its habit and invasive nature it is a problem in the wrong place. Poison/Common Ivy contain a compound that irritates the skin and the ground is inert for anything else to grow for a period of time. Only Ivy.

Berberis thurburgeii startling results of reds, oranges and yellow in autumn. A versatile plant, has interesting leaves although will cause an allergic reaction when in contact with skin.

Rudbeckia – Black eyed Susan has coarse hairs along the stems that will temporarily be of discomfort. This dissipates quite quickly when cleaned off.

With Irises, care needs to be taken in dividing and transplanting the plants. The storage organ has toxic compounds that can permeate through the skin.

Aconitum carmichaelli or napellus are known not just to be an irritant but highly toxic. It difficult to confuse the dangers but infection could arise from a cut or broken skin so gloves are always advised.

Thistles and stinging nettles along with other abrasive plants (berries) will cause discomfort for a time. Giant hogweed can poses a risk and has damaging qualities although not usually left by others to become a problem.