Shady spots

Featured by zoe100675, posted in Flowers, Foliage, Horticulture, Shrubs

It can be a secluded spot in an open space that gets little or no sun. If we’re dealing with an NE/NW facing garden it can be in an area that is chilly / exposed to the elements. Any plant that’s in shade will generally grow slower but it’s worth knowing more plants tolerate these conditions than you’d think.

Daphne’s are known for their flowers / scent in the cooler months though they’re not hardy in extreme conditions. It can be partial shade provided there is some sunlight. It will flower from winter to spring. Daphne odora provides fragrant flowers / variegated foliage.

Rhododendrons, although tolerate full sun, prefer partial shade. Since they’re a woodland plant they often do well in poor soil. They will compete with other plants for moisture, although not to excess, so the soil needs to be free draining. The PH. is important and has a bearing on its performance too. They prefer an acidic soil as do Azaleas, an ericaceous base with organic matter, humus rich in substance.

Camellias prefer an acidic soil but these shrubs are OK in semi shade, not too chilly though. Camellia’s do prefer a warmer aspect, not particularly resilient to the cold, damaging winds. Most Camellias flower in early spring. These are C. japonica. The winter flowering variety, C. sasanqua needs protecting from the sun, cold dry winds – the more sheltered the better. C. ‘winter Star’, however, is hardy and early flowering. Camellia x williamsii is also hardier than C. japonica and flowers in winter. It is good in shade too.

Aucuba japonica (spotted laurel) is a good hardy shrub. It will withstand adverse conditions. It is an evergreen. It offers interesting foliage as a result of the mosaic virus. It is noting this is a friendly virus; doesn’t harm the plant, just mutates the colour. In order to retain this effect, cut out the reverting green growth.

Cornus alba (Dogwood) is very good in a shaded area and exposed conditions. C. canadensis particularly for shade, C. alba for exposed areas. It will provide flowers, foliage and attractive bark in the winter months.

Virburnum davidii is tolerant of sun and shade. A shrub that attracts beneficial insects and provides flowers, foliage and scent. It prefers well drained soil but generally very easy to maintain. It is worth noting it is not a tidy shrub. It has an informal role in a mixed border and will not stay compact. It’s not keen on being exposed so dark but not cold.

Mahonia ‘Charity’ and ‘Winter sun’ most common. These will flower from autumn, suited to a cooler environment. The shrub tolerates being in shade – a strong possibility for those difficult areas. It’s a hardy shrub and provides scented flowers / bursting colour in winter. There is no real pruning, just removing unwanted growth in spring.

Skimmia is an evergreen providing flowers, foliage and berries throughout the year. A scented flower in spring attracting beneficial insects, much needed berries throughout autumn / winter. They will tolerate most conditions; soil, aspect, adverse weather but again partial shade. Skimmia can become leggy so do cut out bolted growth and cut out any unwanted in spring.

Kalmia (Mountain Laurel) is a very good shrub for shade. It flowers in early summer. It does fruit but it’s the pink, purple, white flowers that form a delicate cluster. It needs to be in well drained soil, not an area that gets waterlogged. It also prefers an ericaceous soil – full of humus rich matter and on the acidic side. Also prone to root rot, so make sure the crown of the plant protrudes from the surface, similar to roses.

Sambucus nigra (Elder) this shrub will tolerate a shaded spot but like most plants do better in full sun. It does benefit from lemon scented flowers in summer although the foliage on its own is impressive. It produces berries as a food source; popular with birds. It is hardy, though decidious so it loses it leaves. The soil also needs to be humus rich, high in nutritutional substance so a sandy consistency maybe not. However, the soil can be conditioned so it’s not particularly an issue.

Perennials (Blue, Purple and Pinks)

Featured by zoe100675, posted in Flowers, Foliage, Horticulture, Perennial

When deciding on herbaceous perennials in a border, it is worth mentioning to decide how it will be seen. At a 360 degree or head on or at an angle. A characteristic of herbaceous schemes is varying heights so you don’t want something upright and staked masking something mat forming. Herbaceous perennial is a term for plants that die back in dormant months, and usually cut at base level. The goodness returns to their storage organ, the following year they return.

Upright (require staking – not essential / advisable. The plant won’t be damaged by being top heavy or by high winds).

Delphiniums like sun but do require a little shade. The perennial can suffer if overfaced with very dry conditions. It will flower late spring to summer and it needs deadheading to prolong flowering. Every couple of years, divide the plant to retain its vigour. Delphinium elatum ‘sweethearts’ good for beneficial insects, pink throughout summer. If you cut back immediately after flowering, you may get another swathe.

Hollyhocks have a single stem with flowers hanging from it. After the flowers are spent, the plant needs to be cut to the base. It is good houskeeping, will reduce disease but the perennial benefits too. Strictly speaking a biennial but in the right conditions it can return. It’s suited to a sunny aspect, well drained soil. These plants need support.

Penstemon ‘Blue Spring’ is a good all rounder but may still need a little more protection. It will do well in full sun and in a sheltered aspect. It is easy to grow but to ensure the soil isn’t saturated and not too poor.

Cosmos provide flowers from summer to early autumn available in pinks, reds. By dead heading you will prolong the flowering until the first frost. The plant doesn’t require any particular care and they’re tolerant of poor soil. If you don’t dead head though they will stop flowering. Cosmos atrosanguineus ‘Chocamocha’ is an exception to staking. more compact in its habit.

Phlox paniculata ‘bright eyes’ comes in pink but a variety of other colours, sweetly scented throughout summer, it attracts beneficial insects and free standing.

Echinacea provides flowers throughout the summer, requires no staking. Although upright, these perennials are robust and self sufficient. It is fragrant and attracts beneficial insects.

Salvia nemorosa is a hardy choice, providing aromatic foliage from late spring right through summer. A very straightforward perennial. Shave the top growth in spring and the plant willl come back with luscious growth.

Mat / clump forming (compact habit or sometimes spreading).

Nepeta is a low maintenance perennial. All it needs cutting back at the end of the year. It needs sun and a chalky soil, so full of substance. Common name ‘catmint’ since cats like rolling on it. It will attract beneficial insects, providing you with colour from late spring throughout summer. Again, dead heading this plant will encourage more flowers. It has a spreading habit so this needs to be at the front of a border.

Geranium or ‘true’ Geraniums are perennials. There is a bit of discussion on this. Those with ringed leaves, heavy aroma and furry leaves could be described as a ‘Pelargonium’. This is something else. It is very straightfoward to look after just not in wet soil. It will tolerate shade but performs better in full sun. It is drought tolerant and will survive in adverse conditions. It roots system will spread underground.

Sedums are a succulent but used in perennial borders. A compact cluster of stalks. It doesn’t require any support and provides pink flowers. A very hardy perennial that gets cut at the base in dormancy. It can be divided to multiply and benefits the storage organ.

Dianthus (Pinks) or carnations as the cut flowers are referred to. Clump forming of pink, red, white, purple. A grass like foliage, it will provide scented flowers through late spring and summer. The plant is drought tolerant but the more irrigation it gets in full sun, the better it will do. At the front, low growing.

Vinca (Major and Minor) generally speaking the difference is the size of foliage and flowers. Periwinkle is ground cover, mat forming and provides purple and white flowers spring into summer. What it does not tolerate are very dry conditions, not drought tolerant. Ideally to be in partial shade in well drained soil and some moisture is a bonus.

Osteospermum jucundum var compactum will flower mid summer to autumn, a spreading habit these perennials will fill in gaps where weeding would otherwise be necessary. A low growing habit, they like sun and water. They sometimes don’t survive a cold snap which is why they are considered a bedding / annual but with the right conditions they will come back.

Fake Fruit

Featured by zoe100675, posted in Flowers, Foliage, Fruit, Horticulture

Although their names assume a fruit, some of these plants don’t produce any. The ones that do provide effective blossom in the early months and a food source at autumn time.

Mock Orange – Philadelphus – a highly scented large shrub / small tree. It prefers a full sun aspect; good soil too. It flowers in spring although has no leaves in dormancy so only seasonally interesting. The soil needs to have substance but be free draining. It does not tolerate being soaked either.

Mexican Orange Blossom – Choisya – A spring flowering shrub. Different varieties have varying leaves of shape and colour. ‘Sundance’ light green and ‘Aztec Pearl’ dark, narrow and pinnate in shape. This is a shrub that will tolerate some shade and offers spring flowers that are heavily scented. Both attractive foliage and flora. It’s an evergreen, so all year provides colour.

Ornamental Cherry Blossom – Prunus serrulata – an upright tree that is quick to establish. It flowers in spring although has no fragrance. A full sun aspect is preferred. Though its decidious (leaves fall off), this tree provides the biggest of white flora in May.

The Japanese Apricot – Beni chidori – Prunus mume – a highly scented specimen offering flowers late winter into spring. It flowers when there are no leaves. It does fruit in summer, but you wouldn’t eat them voluntarily – good for wildlife though. A sheltered site is preferred so exposed areas are not ideal.  This tree needs full sun; the soil free draining too.

Prunus incisa ‘frilly frock’ – a smaller variety with white flowers early in spring. Its habit is weeping and suited to a smaller space. It prefers sun but will tolerate some shade. As long as it’s in well drained soil, it accepts most medias.

Pyrus salcifolia ‘pendula’ – its flowers offer attractive white blooms in mid spring, autumn fruit and interesting opaque / frosted leaves. It bears no edible fruit although there is a yield. No fragrance to speak of either. It needs full sun to effectively perform.

Malus baccata – crab apple – offers highly scented flowers for beneficial insects and berries for birds. It’s very resilient and can withstand a poor environment, an exposed location and little maintenance.

Malus spectabilis – a chinese flowering apple blossom – will offer flowers early spring, fruit early autumn. Its flowers attract beneficial insects.

Berries for Wildlife

Featured by zoe100675, posted in Flowers, Fruit, Horticulture, Shrubs

Aside from shrubs offering attractive foliage and flowers throughout the year, some offer berries that provide a valuable food source throughout the colder months.

Virburnum tinus is an attractive shrub with dark, glossy leaves. it bears highly scented flowers from late winter through to spring. The berries come after the flowers so don’t dead head until pruning begins in spring. The plants needs to be with another of the same species for pollination. Will perform well in a shady spot.

Sorbus americana (Mountain ash) too offers berries over the colder months, it flowers in summer. This decidious tree will thrive late summer to autumn. An ornamental known for its clusters of flowers and bright fruit. It’s also known as Rowan.

Ilex aquifolium (Holly) often does not bear fruit when over pruned. An evergreen, it provides an effective habitat for wildlife and a food source. Beneficial insects are attracted to the shrub/hedge to pollinate the flowers. Holly bear flowers of both sexes so after pollination fruit will form.

Virginia Creeper is a climber that provides a food source for much wildlife. Similiar to Ivy, it is often used to hide a multitude of sins and can be planted against a wall. it produces clusters of flowers in spring although these are non-descript. It is quite invasive but offers very attractive foliage in the autumn months. It is a decidious vine and both the leaves and berries contain an irritant.

Skimmia Japonica can provide interest all year round. Both the leaves and flowers are scented. An evergreen, the female flowers will form fruit that will cover the the winter months, the male flowers are more scented and when coupled together achieve a breathtaking display.

Cotoneaster is a very hardy, robust specimen. Can be evergreen or decidious and habit can differ. There are ground cover varieites, C. horizontalis or arching habit C. Conspicuus ‘Decorus’. The berries are usually red – save for C. rothschildianus which are cream. It can be invasive if not contained, it usually will just keep spreading.

A close relation to Cotoneaster is Pyracantha. Pyracantha (Firethorn) offers berries in autumn and flowers in spring. It is an evergreen with attractive glossy leaves. It can often be trained against a wall. It does have spines on its branches which can make it difficult to work with. It needs to be in a sheltered spot but otherwise will provide you with a wealth of flowers and berries at different times of the year.

Healthy Growth

Featured by zoe100675, posted in Horticulture

Often more than not your choice of shrubs will be performing as you expected them to but from time to time your garden may experience bouts of illness. A result of a Parasite, a Fungal Infection or a Virus.  It can often is exarcerbated by humidity and wet weather.

Rot can set in if roots sit in saturated soil and grass can appear matted, soaked and flat. A lawn can generally speaking is kept in good order if following steps are considered. Most of us have a typical utility lawn which can become compacted as a result of constant traffic, neglect and adverse weather.

By aerating the lawn simply with the tines of a fork air can circulate under the surface and improve the drainage of the area. On a larger scale land drains can be installed by way of a trench, corrugated plastic piping and gravel in the trench.

Making sure the grass is not cut too short. If it is an amenity area the seed is fit for purpose (it will contain premium seed: Festcues and Bents). A typical lawn contains Ryegrass and Annual meadow grass and although more robust and resilient can only be mowed to a certain height. It has not been designed for a very short habit and only cut with a rotary mower.

If you weed and feed each year, only use moss killer and fertiliser moderately. Excessive application will be indicative by black marks. If you’re not fussy it will grow back and knit together or can be patched up by removing the affected area.

Regular inspection of your plants will often raise an alert if necessary. If there are notches missing off the leaves, if they are unexpectedly wilting or lost their colour and vigour. If a pattern is emerging throughout the bed, it may be a sign of a cross infection. To identify what it is, it is half the battle! There are organic (non biological and non chemical) and biological and chemical forms of treatment. For a bout of aphids on Roses, Soapy water can often work since the insects cannot stay on the leaves thereby minimising the damage. By growing resistant crops like carrots or beans can minimise the likelihood of verticullum wilt attacking a bed.

Leather Jackets/Chafer Grubs are a problem for lawn and young shrubs or vegetables. They attack the root system and although live under the surface are close to soil level and can be identified just short of the roots.

Vine Weevils are one the most common culprits, a black beetle which has yellow speckles and can be identified as the problem when the leaves show notches eaten. The seem to host themselves in the ground and prowl about causing destruction at night-time. Pesticides can be used or now there are “nematodes” available these predators will eat the problem away. It is worth noting that the majority of the time they invade on Shrubs in containers.  

Verticullum Wilt can also be identified by a sudden setback of growth and appearance of dieback. It harbours itself in infected soil and penetrates through minor wounds or fine roots where their is weakness. It will last one year hosting on tissue so older plants usually recover. Younger ones, however, do not. If you experience a spate of this it is probably not worth putting a replacement in the same location since the fungus will remain in the soil. If you can cut into the tissue you will see a clear discolouration of an infected side and a healthy side.

Camellia’s suffer a mottle virus which produces yellow patches randomly on leaves. Research has shown it is not an insect but has evolved as a result of an infected knife/dirty secateurs. A lot of the time you can minimise these ailments but not eliminate them entirely. The list is extensive and sometimes linked to one particular Shrub. Good Practice should include clean tools, regular spraying if clearly susceptible to a particular condition, removing dead or diseased growth, regular feed and perhaps mulching in the colder months will all help.

Rust and Black spot can be particularly frustrating since it can inflict itself significantly quickly with Roses and on the undersides of the leaves you’ll notice orange spots. They will appear black in Autumn, reproduce and worsen the infection. By adding mulch around the crown in Winter and adopting a spraying programme you can keep these symptoms in abeyance.

Black spot does tend to affect Roses although it is known to attack other shrubs. A yellow -tinged black spot surrounded by a yellow lip. The leaves suffer chlorosis (discolouration) and die. This is usually in high humid, wet weather. Cutting out the diseased growth is the 1st step to its containment. Good housekeeping can help enormously, the debris being removed from the area and preventative spraying before the outbreak.

Viruses seem more difficult to diagnose and can only be sourced by poor management of tools, these should be cleaned regularly and thoroughly to avoid cross infection.
Viruses are usually carried by sucking insects like Aphids, leafhoppers and whitefly. Often agricultural crops will be chosen on their resistance merit as it is not uncommon for whole crops to be decimated.

Camellia

by zoe100675, posted in Horticulture

A long time ago, there were lovers that lived on the opposite ends of a river. They promised to meet when the camellia flowers bloomed. But it rained so much the boat couldn’t cross the river. So the two couldn’t meet, even though the camellia flowers had all bloomed. Let’s meet again. Before the camellia flowers wilt. Camellias can be associated with Romance but more so a sense boldness with its immaculate flowers and repleat habit.

(John the Apostle).

These plants are so alike but also have very different characteristics. They like the same medium, environment, treatment and possess the same characteristics. Well nearly.

Camellia flowers are not only beautiful but also rich in meaning and symbolism. With a history dating back centuries, these flowers hold significance in various cultures and traditions. Longevity and happiness mostly and are mostly used in weddings in parts like Korea. Rich in antioxidants they have been known to have medicinal qualities.

Gloria Sims, floristempire.

Camellia

Zoe Furniss 2023

CAMELLIAS

Camellias are woody shrubs. Large shrub / small trees that usually flower in spring to summer. C.japonica and williamsii x. However, there are winter flowering although not as many varieties, Find at C.sansanqua. Camellias go well with Hostas, Rhododendrons and Maples.

Conditions

Camellias can survive in shade, certainly winter flowering varieties but do like shelter.

After flowering you need to prune to restore vigour of growth and eliminate the plants from becoming woody. Camellias like an acidic soil and can be container or field based according to the space.

Camellias like to have water so not drought tolerant but do need a little food, not excessive though. Like grass, too much fertiliser or food can cause an adverse reaction.

Deadheading can prolong the flowering but also retain the Camellias trim shape. In spells of very cold weather, keep them out of the wind.

Prune only when there are signs of excessive growth. Regular pruning will affect the volume of flowers which bloom.

Disease

Camellias can often get fungal infection in the summer due to moisture and heat. Gall affects the Camellia short term, a shrivelling of leaves caused by a bacteria infection. These infected parts can be cut out. Another fungal infection, Petal Blight, again, no biological control. Good housekeeping can prevent it in future years. Take care to remove dead and diseased debris.

ROSES

Roses, seem to work in an cluster whereas one Camellia can stand alone, it is very much up to the aesthetics of the onlooker, Roses are to known to look very good with interspaced Catmint (catmint) and Lavender for an Arts and Craft look. How very English you might say!

Roses, seem to work in an cluster whereas one Camellia can stand alone, it is very much up to the aesthetics of the onlooker, Roses are to known to look very good with interspaced Catmint (catmint) and Lavender for an Arts and Craft look. How very English you might say!

There are exceptions to these observations. Some Camellia’s are more susceptible to cold an some Roses are more hardy. Camellias can cope in shade as Roses often can’t. When you do cut them back. Reframe and redesign with a shape in mind and always cut above a leaf node.

types

  • Shrub Roses – can be used a back drop, in a corner and ideal in adverse conditions. This includes wild, old fashioned and modern. Rosa Aphrodite (‘Tan00847’PBR) (S) needs full sun, shelter and protection in the colder months.
  • Tea / Hybrid Rose – often hybrid and grafted. Share the same characteristics of a standard. Cut out dead, diseased and damaged branches. The severity of prune depends on the spread you want but follow the direct maintenance – you can’t go wrong.
  • Climbing Roses – not all need lots of sun, just protection Rosa ‘Madame Grégoire Staecheli – a vibrant, fragrant example that can take a north facing aspect. All types of soil. Exposed or sheltered. Rosa Gertrude Jekyll (‘Ausbord’PBR) perfectly scented but not so shaded, shorter in habit but still easy with growing medium.

The type of Rose relates to its habit and level of pruning required. The idea is whatever the habit to reduce enough to reshape but not there are no buds to follow. Use clean secateurs and cut correctly, the Rose will benefit.

Conditions

Roses prefer moist, sunny and humus rich soil. Surviving in light shade but not heavy. Sitting in water is not their thing either.

They do not tolerate being soaked so worth reconditioning soil if space is limited. This means anything that changes your medium. You might add sulphur to make it more acidic, chalk / lime to reduce it.

Organic matter to substantiate thin free draining soil and sand to make soil less waterlogged. Potting it on can be a solution since you can manipulate the soil.

Avoid areas that are exposed and the branches easily damaged. Open / rough wounds affect Roses more than other specimens. Wounds can easily harbour disease.

Some are mound forming Rosa ‘Carpet White’ needing full sun and a southern aspect. Or climbing Rosa ‘Climbing Iceberg” ideal for shady spots.

It’s about habit. Shrub Roses compared to standard need less cutting back pre.spring. You can remove dead, diseased and damaged to ensure the adverse conditions of winter don’t damage. Take to a third of their height and in spring if they bolt. The vigour of growth is being restored so energy needs to focus on regenerative growth. Roses usually have a scent (except white) so worth retaining as many flowers as possible.

PRUNE

Prune downwards so no water collects on the bud. Cut to a dormant bud. The kind of rose determines how far you prune but this 1st rule applies across the board.

PEST / DISEASES

Replant disease can occur when the specimen is planted in the same soil a former plant was in. This is mainly due to pathogens in the soil. Signs would be poor growth and evidence of the rose not establishing itself. Roots can also appear rotten. A lot of fruit trees can also suffer from this condition. Quince, Plum and Cherry for instance.

Which / WhyRoses, seem to work in a cluster whereas one Camellia can stand alone, it is very much up to the aesthetics of the onlooker, Roses are to known to look very good with interspaced Catmint (catmint) and Lavender for an Arts and Craft look. How very English you might say?Camellia
AppearanceOval, serrated, matt, dark green. Deep veined.Glossy green leaves. Coated in wax.
LocationGrow in warmer climesCooler temperature
ScentRoses tend to smell more unless whiteStatement plants
Purpose Fragrance, fruit, jams and jellies and teaOrnamental, landscaping and cut flowers
DefrokeMostly deciduous / semi evergreenKeep their leaves (Evergreen)
BenefitsBouquet. Love and affectionChinese Medicine
Zoe Furniss

Another interesting point are Roses which are not of true order.

Cistus – a Rock Rose – a drought tolerant Mediterranean shrub. It needs full sun but can handle poor soil. They don’t like being pruned and will not tolerate heavy, wet or too rich a soil.

And, a Hellebore - Christmas Rose. / Lentern – a low growing semi evergreen that tolerates partial shade, fertile soil and moderate moisture. However, this is another blog altogether.

Roses: Acid loving, smell, appearance, maintenance, aspect, choice, maintenance. Roses: “thorny, complicated and a bit messy.

Roses show a choice for love and affection. “I always send to my beloved every year”.

Camellias are: Acid loving, shady parts, little pruning, good in containers, no strong winds, chalk. Camellias are good in landscaping, green glossy leaves. Very much to make an impression . “The Camellia does so well each year. I am thrilled”.

CONCLUDING THOUGHTS

Roses and Camellias are versatile and decorative shrubs providing colour, scent and being inviting to wildlife. Every shrub needs to be pruned. Plants certainly need water, almost every plant needs food. But how much and how little is entirely up to you. Some are more time-intensive and very much up to how you spend your time skill. Roses smell. Camellias bloom.

On one hand, Roses offer a divine fragrance, Camellias the glossy leaves. Both acid lovers, enjoying rich soil. Camellias are slightly more straightforward to keep judged on the fact that little pruning is needed. Aspect / purpose / maintenance / scent / vigour / disease all play a part in the environment it will be in and what other neighbouring plant needs are.

Green in an instant.

by zoe100675, posted in Horticulture

In a previous article mow not grow, we examined the steps to seeding a successful lawn. It can take some months so if the availability is there and you’re not strapped for cash laying turf is a method to use. To turf a lawn takes no time at all and the effect is instant.

However, it is a little more complex and the staple rules must be followed. A good idea also is not to lay the grass in hot weather. This is largely down to shrinkage which will be mentioned later.

Assess your ground. The surface area. Calculate one roll to one square metre. Evaluate what soil you have. Does it get waterlogged, the likelihood is it’s clay-based. This needs to be treated as you will find it difficult later to maintain (puddles in wet weather, soggy areas.) Does it dry out quickly, then it’s sandy. Again, difficulties in summer (patchy brown and little growth.) Grass can also be susceptible to disease and pests when it’s weakened.

The treatments to alter the soil are logical. If it is clay-based, you will have to break the soil up which can take time. You will eventually want fine soil on the back of a fork until the particles are broken. Walk the site with your feet stamping on the clumps of earth. A garden rake then applies pressure in a backward / forward motion until it’s a very fine tilth. It may even be an idea to filter some sand as well to make it more free draining.

If it’s sandy-based, you will substantiate the quality and bulk out the soil. This is achieved by adding organic material or screen soil (low quality) / topsoil (high quality). All these factors are important, it’s all in the preparation.

The level of ground is important and lulls and bumps should be eliminated or any unwanted unevenness.

The question of where to buy your turf is crucial. The turf stays fresh for up to 3 days. It should have been cut on the morning of delivery. This is relevant when you work out the likelihood of it being successful. Old turf is a false economy. So, make sure it’s fresh. Keep them in rolls as you start to work backward.

Do.

  • Work backward and don’t return to the laid area.
  • Use a plank to tamper the joins /lay the turf side by side overlapping where you knead it with a rake.
  • Large pieces of turf around the outside.
  • Use offcuts only in the middle or sparingly.
  • Have a surplus for wastage (10%).
  • Regularly water even in colder periods.
  • Mow very high for the 1st time.

Don’t.

  • Walk on the site.
  • Mow until 2 weeks after showing signs of success.
  • Leave any small gaps (the turf will shrink and sink as it is knitting together.
  • Interfere with area.
  • Use small pieces or avoid damaged / imperfect rolls.

Buying your seed is easy. There are several kinds available for different purposes. There is even shade-loving seed which before had been a common problem. Turf usually needs to be bought from a reputable firm to ensure the quality (Amenity.) Fine turf (fescue and meadow but with ryegrass.) Well, you don’t want to make life more difficult.

It takes more energy / more money / more focus but is certainly quicker to initiate. Seeding takes longer but is cheaper. You can do it all times of the year bar high summer. Seeding can often be laborious and sometimes the seed fails. Not for any error just because nature is volatile. It’s up to you how quickly you want it.

CHILLY AND DARK

by zoe100675, posted in Climbers, Flowers, Horticulture, Shrubs

There is always an isolated spot in an open space that is shaded. Aside from woodland bulbs (Crocus / Bluebells) and perennials (Astrantia / Acanthus) there are some shrubs that prefer this aspect. Some are winter flowering so for dark and cold spots. It can be used to create a biodiverse paradise too. With some moisture and a bit of humidity fungi, ferns can be encouraged. It’s not so much the shade that affects them it’s the lack of water if anything.

Sarcococcoa (Christmas box) An evergreen often used a shrub but can be made into a hedge (mound forming). It provides white fragrant flowers in late winter. The fragrance is delicate notes of vanilla – sometimes referred to as sweet box too. The shrub has attractive foliage, can cope in shade although must be fertile and have substance. If it does get sun the soil must be kept moist.

Virburnum bodnantense “dawn.” A winter flowering shrub, be mindful not a neat one, no formal habit. It is very hardy though. It can be pruned to keep compact but taking away its character really. It flowers in winter and bears berries in summer. It loses its leaves in flowering but provides interest all times of the year. It flowers in winter through into spring. Virburnum tinus offers the same amount of colour, scent, leaves but is evergreen and flowers with its leaves. It prefers a sunny aspect. The soil needs some fertility too and have substance.

Mahonia A winter flowering shrub. An evergreen too with very attractive foliage, a vibrant yellow burst of colour. Its habit is slow growing so it keeps its shape very well. X media ‘charity’ and X media ‘winter sun.’ They are both slightly different. No maintenance to speak of. Mahonia needs a little shelter so not great in an exposed position but very straightforward otherwise. The shrub is very hardy offering attractive foliage, berries, flowers and fragrance. What more?

Ferns are usually very good in shade. They’re probably one of the oldest plants – prehistoric in fact. Some in damp shade, some in dry. Dryoptens erythrosora is an interesting type since it offers a copper glow along with pretty fronds like ferns have. Multiply on their own. Survive and adapt in the most adverse conditions. A woodland habit so under trees; poor soil; little nutrients; source their own moisture but I think a little humidity help is needed. Incredibly resourceful.

Skimmia japonica. A great evergreen, wonderful in drifts. Quite straightforward to maintain. It can become leggy and only produce at the top of plant so pruning periodically of unwanted growth can help this. This seems to happen in time. They are quite slow growing so not very often. It provides fragrant white flowers and berries in spring. you’ll get berries if you put a boy and girl next to each other.

Euonymous alatus is a decidious E. It offers wonderful red foliage in the autumn. Burning bush to most would be considered a specimen shrub although in some states it is regarded as invasive and a pest. It does produce berries but known more for its foliage. A little bit on the wild side though. There are Euonymous that are evergreen, have a different habit and offer different foliage. These usually have more compact habit as a shrub although there ground cover and climber varieties. The foliage is usually variegated and often cream and green E. ‘Emerald Gaiety’ and green and yellow ‘Emerald n Gold’ and ground cover ‘Colorado.’ Euonymous’s are great foliage plants. Low maintenance in any aspect. No pruning save unwanted growth. They are very resilient and often overlooked.

CHRISTMAS PLANTS

by zoe100675, posted in Flowers, Horticulture, Perennial, Shrubs

There are plants that are associated with Christmas, there are plants that have “Christmas” in their name too but have absolutely nothing to do with this festive season.

Mistletoe (Viscum album) is associated with amorous engagements purely since it was recognised as symbol of fertility and vitality. In reality toxic although not lethal. Mistletoe isn’t grown, it hosts off other flora sometimes killing the parent plant. So, actually a parasite and poisonous.

Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) or Spurge to you or me. Not very festive sounding. It is considered a house plant but under the right conditions can be transplanted after the new year and when conditions are warmer. These aren’t very easy to keep though. The conditions are important. The plant needs to be warm enough but not too hot. Some sunlight but not too much. It needs water but not excessive and the soil must be free draining. It will flower again if these conditions are adhered to.

Holly (Ilex aquifolium) associated with Christmas largely because of its berries are borne at this time. A much needed food source for birds over the colder months. This plant can take the form of a tree, shrub, or climber by its species. It can be argued that cotoneaster offers an equally stark contrast in the winter months yet it is not associated with this period. There are references to the leaves resembling thorns although this has no relativity to the plant.

Ivy (Hedera helix) is long associated and references made in carols. A very invasive plant. I’m not a fan of Ivy. I take the view that it does impede growth. It takes moisture from other plants and competes for space. Once in situ the growth is very prolific and can cause problems on brickwork or stone. Like other plants not the direct cause of its demise but a contributing factor. With brickwork, will not cause the deterioration but certainly does not help in preventing decay.

Christmas Box (Sarcococca) is perhaps referred to as a winter flowering shrub. It provides sweet fragrant white flora throughout the winter months. An evergreen it provides attractive foliage at other times of the year. It will bear berries after flowering so an important food source. But not directly linked to Christmas.

Lentern Rose / Christmas rose (Hellebrous niger) no link to Christmas or Roses. It is not related in anyway to Rosa. Perhaps because it provides winter interest. An effective perennial in a shaded area needing little maintenance providing colour and interest where there few other plants in bloom.

There are plants that are celebrated at Christmas purely because they flower at this time. Christmas Cactuses being one. Having said this, other cultures bring a wealth of richness with other forms of acknowledgement. Olives for peace, Opium poppy pods for prosperity and bulrushes for prosperity and good fortune which are equally important.

COMING INTO THEIR OWN 1

by zoe100675, posted in Horticulture

Some shrubs come into their own in this period and rather non descript throughout the rest of the year. They may bear fruits now (feeding wildlife, may flower in abundance) yet produce quite bland foliage at other times.

Dogwood alba (sibrica) does produce foliage, and its stems green . It does flower in spring and bears fruits after but is used for its winter colour. It prefers sunlight and so not suited to a chilly corner. It does remain relatively compact but cut down after dormant period and reduce growth to a few central stems. Remove dead, damaged stems and this will encourage new fresh growth for the coming year. Dogwood (kousa) is a variety not known for red/yellow winter colour but its flowers in summer.

Mahonia offer a scented yellow flower in the autumn shortly after the leaves start to change colour. Having the colour at this time, the foliage is equally attractive all year round as it is an evergreen. Mahonia are hardy. No maintenance to speak of other than control the size so if limited room cut back a little to retain the shape. Although a shrub can be used as part of a mixed hedge or a means of deterrent down to its very spiky leaves. It is not a formal shrub and shouldn’t really be pruned heavily.

Hellebore (Lentern Rose) These can flower throughout the darkest and coldest months, although must be in full sun. The soil needs to be free draining too, they don’t like sitting in moisture. Although they are regarded as perennials. The foliage actually never dies back to the ground, although the flowers are this period.

Pieris ‘mountain fire’ and ‘forest flame’ are evergreens that offer flowers, changing foliage and needing little care. A compact shrub. It bears flowers in late spring as the foliage colour in early. So it is not autumn flowering but provides more interesting foliage in this period. It does prefer full sun and the soil enriched with goodness.

Cotinus coggygria ‘Royal Purple’ (Mexican smoke bush) has a deep foliage all year round although in autumn seems richer. A great foliage plant needing little or no maintenance save unwanted growth. It flowers in summer but known for its purple foliage which is enriched in the winter months.

Hamamelis X intermedia/mollis (Chinese witch hazel) – an architectural specimen often looking quite insipid until the flowers appear. It can be the most vibrant orange and yellow. The flowers are fragrant, delicate and appear in the dormant period (usually late in winter though.) It needs some protection from wind damage too. The leaves, although a bit non descript do provide foliage and change colour in autumn.

Virburum tinus, a winter flowering shrubs providing hugely fragrant flowers. Virburnum’s are good in most aspects and relatively resilient to adverse conditions. The soil should be on the heavy side and not too sandy. Water retentive but not water logged since few plants like this. Bear in mind, you should let this shrub/hedge lead it’s own habit. it is not formal any way.

Chimonanthus praecox (Wintersweet) A hardy shrub providing a spicy, fragrant scent. A delicate flower borne on the previous years growth. It needs to be in a sunny position and well drained soil. A little shelter too, maybe by a wall for protection due its delicate habit or an appropriate wind buff.