Springtime Colour

by gardenspast123, posted in Flowers, Horticulture, Shrubs

September/October is the ideal time to plant bulbs in preparation for Spring. Spring colour includes your Daffodils, Snowdrops and Crocuses, your Summer bulbs like Dahlias, Lillies, Red Hot Pokers and Crocosmia need planting in Spring or dividing to rejuvenate the plant. Tuberous or rhizome rooted plants (Begonia’s or Irises) too moved or divided at the turn of the new season.

Daffodils now have so many variations. There are 1,000s that deviate from your egg yolk yellow. It’s smaller cousin Narcissus is equally diverse. Usually you don’t divide daffodils. They do not multiply like Crocosmia so you would usually just plant more. In the event of bulbs being of a healthy size you could slice and plant the divided pieces. In a cluster or a wave are very effective, a border or naturalised in the grass. The downside to naturalised, however, is when they’re spent you mustn’t cut them back. The period to leave them is 6-7 weeks or until the foliage goes limp. This will effect the flowering and the general health of the plant.

Crocuses are one of the 1st to appear and can adapt to a shaded environment. The wild variety is a woodland plant and usually found under tree canopies. Although they do better in full sun, the time of year they appear there’s not much foliage so they adapt. The one important point is the soil must be well drained. They are not fans of rain.

Snowdrops too are a wonderful addition and flower early in the year. The only snag is they don’t last long enough. Maybe 2-3 weeks. The plant can be divided and more plants encouraged. Propagation can also be achieved by seed amongst other methods. They prefer shade to full sun and need no maintenance. They will die back naturally.

Bluebells, although, not a cultivated plant can achieve a breathtaking carpet of colour in April to May. A woodland scene can be replicated with the minimum of effort since they are quick to spread and because of their origins can adapt in shaded areas.

Alliums can be planted for shows in spring to early summer. Do not plant in boggy areas or in heavy soil, they prefer well drained conditions and thrive in sun. They can cope with dry periods and are self reliant. They also attract beneficial insects so bio diverse for your garden.

Plant Tulips for spring colour, they come in a variety of colours and shapes. A hardy specimen, they do well in a sheltered position though. They do not weather well and prefer a full sun aspect. Tulips can ideally be taken out each year and dried out. Often they are left in the ground but will not tolerate over excessive moisture. Discard any diseased, damaged bulbs when storing them.

Grape Hyacinths offer a food source to bees as well as vibrant colour in mid – late spring. The plant has a tendency to seed after flowering, so to retain the vigour of the existing plant it is a good idea to remove the flowerheads. It is, however, not hugely detrimental and division every couple of years will help in their growth.

Winter Colour

by gardenspast123, posted in Flowers, Horticulture, Shrubs

There are specimens with special characteristics that will provide you with interesting flowers, foliage and colour in the warmer months. In the colder seasons they do not cease to entertain and will give a striking winter display too.

Rubus cockburnianus (White stemmed bramble) provides foliage and flowers in summer, white stems in winter. Wonderful as a backdrop. They need to be in full sun however to perform although the aspect is not important. They are good in exposed areas as well as in sheltered conditions. In a cluster ideally, this should be cut down in spring to contain the size. Any arching habit should be cut off to avoid rooting and creating a mess.

Cornus florida monrovia (Flowering dogwood) It’s habit is more of a tree though. A decidious variety, little maintenance is required, if any. No hard pruning though.

Its relative Cornus alba ‘sibirica is more of a shrub and more suited to the average border. A medium size providing cream flowers in spring and summer. It’s stems are the most vibrant in the winter months. It does need sun or at least partial. It is very hardy. Pruning should only be to take out unecessary growth and keep its habit.

Helleborus niger (Christmas/Lentern rose). This evergreen provides food for insects in the spring. It flowers through winter and into the warmer months. The foliage remains thoughout the year. A hardy specimen. It prefers drier conditions and will not tolerate being waterlogged. Partial shade is ideal.

Ophiopogon planiscapus nigrescens (Black mondo). A hardy black grass that is good in clusters. Small in a clump habit. A number are needed for a wave. It is not a shaded plant and needs a substantial amount of light. It prefers a moist environment but not too wet. Aside from its striking foliage, it produces flowers in summer.

Heuchera ‘Black Beauty’. It flowers in summer and after deadheading and removing spent growth, new foliage will follow. H. ‘Winter Joy’ an evergreen which will flower in summer, but will provide lime green foliage all year round. It will cope with most aspects but needs to have some sun.

Hakonlechla macra (Japanese forest grass). It flowers in late summer, but H. macra is used more for its foliage. Golden H. macra ‘Naomi’ and H. macra ‘Aureola’ provide variegated foliage in addition to the flowers in autumn. The benefit of this grass is its versatility. It tolerates all aspects and all conditions.

Miscanthus sinensis is a plant that, although not flowering at this time of year, should be left until pruning is required. This would be March – April. The spent plumes can be an important part of a winter landscape, even if by default.

Berries for Wildlife

Featured by gardenspast123, posted in Flowers, Fruit, Horticulture, Shrubs

Aside from shrubs offering attractive foliage and flowers throughout the year, some offer berries that provide a valuable food source throughout the colder months.

Virburnum tinus is an attractive shrub with dark, glossy leaves. it bears highly scented flowers from late winter through to spring. The berries come after the flowers so don’t dead head until pruning begins in spring. The plants needs to be with another of the same species for pollination. Will perform well in a shady spot.

Sorbus americana (Mountain ash) too offers berries over the colder months, it flowers in summer. This decidious tree will thrive late summer to autumn. An ornamental known for its clusters of flowers and bright fruit. It’s also known as Rowan.

Ilex aquifolium (Holly) often does not bear fruit when over pruned. An evergreen, it provides an effective habitat for wildlife and a food source. Beneficial insects are attracted to the shrub/hedge to pollinate the flowers. Holly bear flowers of both sexes so after pollination fruit will form.

Virginia Creeper is a climber that provides a food source for much wildlife. Similiar to Ivy, it is often used to hide a multitude of sins and can be planted against a wall. it produces clusters of flowers in spring although these are non-descript. It is quite invasive but offers very attractive foliage in the autumn months. It is a decidious vine and both the leaves and berries contain an irritant.

Skimmia Japonica can provide interest all year round. Both the leaves and flowers are scented. An evergreen, the female flowers will form fruit that will cover the the winter months, the male flowers are more scented and when coupled together achieve a breathtaking display.

Cotoneaster is a very hardy, robust specimen. Can be evergreen or decidious and habit can differ. There are ground cover varieites, C. horizontalis or arching habit C. Conspicuus ‘Decorus’. The berries are usually red – save for C. rothschildianus which are cream. It can be invasive if not contained, it usually will just keep spreading.

A close relation to Cotoneaster is Pyracantha. Pyracantha (Firethorn) offers berries in autumn and flowers in spring. It is an evergreen with attractive glossy leaves. It can often be trained against a wall. It does have spines on its branches which can make it difficult to work with. It needs to be in a sheltered spot but otherwise will provide you with a wealth of flowers and berries at different times of the year.

Roses – Part 2

by gardenspast123, posted in Diseases, Horticulture

The efforts to remove diseased debris from the ground will help reduce pests as well as contain disease. Good housekeeping is an effective way of controlling pests and diseases using ethical methods. The biodiversity of an open space – it’s important to sustain as many eco-systems as possible.

Caterpillars will eat both the flowers and foliage but cause minimal damage to a particular specimen. Since they are beneficial to the food chain and are pollinators themselves a little thought should be taken to sustaining them.

There are a number of stem borers that eat into the cane rendering it weaker and progessively destroying the plant. Cut this stem off until new healthy growth is visible and block the void.

Thrips can often attack and result in buds unopened, leaves damaged often opaque with black dots. The zeal of the leaf will be lost too. There are forms of biological control but it is good practice to find the most ethical method. A lot of beneficial insects eat thrips. Lacewings, predatory worms and mites. Nematodes can be incorporated in the garden for the particular culprit.

Aphids/Greenfly are a common pest to attack in the summer months. They too suck the goodness out of the plant. They leave a residual film which harbours future disease thus crippling the plant more. An organic control is soapy water which simply means they slip off. There are more serious biological means but of course it won’t differentiate from beneficial life. There are lacewings, hoverflies and some beetles equipped to do this job. Blackfly follows the same path of destruction but can be controlled by natural means too – ladybirds, hoverflies coupled with plants that the species are attracted to. Marigolds, Sea Holly and small flowered varieties will suffice.

Greenhouse Spider mite can affect many fruits and vegetables but can have a life threatening effect on Roses. Good housekeeping will minimise the risk and gravity of the infestation. A good indication is the unexpected loss of leaves and those still intact will be mottled or discoloured. This too is a sap sucking nemesis.

The risk of infection either by pest or disease cannot be eliminated but curbed. They are avoidable rather like Root Rot. The cause of death is a fungal disease but it’s strongly linked to the conditions and care of a Rose. It is avoidable but genes can’t be guaranteed. Often it is the result of over watering. (“Killing with kindness”). Like most plants Roses prefer well drained, moist but not saturated soil. Planting is equally important. The crown or collar of the Rose should protrude from the surface and should be exposed. If the soil is not suitable, containerise and in the colder months other protection can be sought.

Pruning as with most shrubs is primarily about taking out dead or diseased growth out. This can only benefit the Rose. With all types of Rose, the purpose is to prolong flowering and improve the performance next year. Whether it be Shrub, Tea, Climbing, Rambling or Patio. The main healthy stems should be kept and spent offshoots discarded. Climbing roses will give you more than one show, Rambling Roses can be pruned much harder in comparison. Patio Roses largely need a light prune but they all follow the same principle save Tea which give successive blooms. These can be dead headed universally several times.

Roses – Part 1

by gardenspast123, posted in Diseases, Flowers, Horticulture, Shrubs, Soil

A time to start cutting these down. It will be to remove dead, damaged and diseased wood. In high winds, it ensures minimal damage to branches if it can move through the Rose. It will improve next years flowering – if there are no pointless branches the energy can move through to where it is needed most. Some leave until spring to do only once. You can return to them in spring if uneven growth starts to bolt. This job should really be done from september in preparation for winter, if not then do leave till spring. It will acclimistise for winter but hard pruning in “baltic” conditions will weaken it.

There is some disparity in the the care of Roses. Some say time-intensive, some argue too much method. Roses are relatively straightforward if you follow a few steps, if anything disease is more likely to thwart it than you.

Prune to a leaf node/bud to avoid dieback. This is an improper cut to the stem which simply goes brown and remains inert. It stores no energy so remove. Dieback however, can be a result of infected soil from previous planting harbouring grey mould and canker. Cutting back in a correct manner highly reduces this risk.

Remove any crossing branches to ensure full circulation and stems do not touch. This is general practice to avoid diseases spreading, cross contaminations. It is also reshaping the Rose so it retains its desired habit.

Cut back spent growth, straggly or unwanted. Look for central stem and 3/4 outward stems (dependent on how big), cut back shoots to 3/4 leaf nodes from the bottom. This should be maybe a third of its height. You can use your discretion for aesthetics. It depends how brave but it will be absolutely fine.

Roses seem susceptible to a number of diseases and pests although some varieties more than others. Varieties are crossed for resistance but as the cross species adapts to fight off the disease, the disease also adapts to survive.

Rust is a fungal disease, it affects the leaves – they will fall before they should. The plants overall performance is affected, in extreme cases can kill a Rose.

Powdery Mildew is a debilitating condition for a Rose. It is easily avoidable. It is usually to high conditions of humidity and lack of air circulation. Spores will infect the plant and impede its performance. Grey mould is pretty much the same thing.

Black spot, a fungal infection that blackens the leaves. Varieties are created to overcome infection but as discoveries are made, Black spot adapts to survive. Older varieties seem to be safer for some reason. Cut out the infected area and remove diseased leaves in autumn.