Fallen and Unfavoured.

Gracie Fields’s song “The Biggest Aspidistra in the world” seems to denote the plants vigour and robustness, but this plant has hugely fallen out of favour. Like fashion, trends/sales can differ year to year and peoples attitudes to plants can change and without warning. In the 70’s, Pampas grasses were in full “swing” quite literally, the association to key swapping parties might have contributed to its downfall. Sales plummeted and other ornamental grasses as Miscanthus sought approval and started getting more recognition. In addition to this though, it may have been that someone might have preferred a number of plants other than one, very difficult deviant dominating the whole frontage.

Aspidistra’s were a solid choice in the 19th century. The evergreen is largely a singular green colour although there is a variegated cultivar. A. elatior ‘variegata’ has more about it, though not as common and not sourced as easily. The lighting requirements of it differ aswell to its green relation. The plant can be kept outside but more often it had been used as an indoor plant. The plant copes with low light, if anything it prefers it and can suffer from leaf bleaching from direct exposure. It will tolerate a sudden change in temperature, be resilient to no care, maintenance, irregular watering so it really is quite tough.

Perhaps the plant could be regarded as a bit non-descript or insipid but in Victorian homes it was a feature of any hallway or salon. It can cope in a shaded area and deals quite well with polluted/poor air. The flowers are uncommon and usually not significant enough. They appear at the base and don’t appear very often. The plant that can produce a flower are usually very mature and found in optimum conditions. It is a slow growing plant and will only produce a number of new leaves each year which is why to get an established specimen takes some time. In the unlikely event the plant is too big, too quickly, division will be the method to propagate it. Or if you inherit one, this is the course of action.

Poinsettia is part of the Spurge family, Euphorbia too. The plants couldn’t be more different. One is synonymous with Christmas, the common one generally self seeds everywhere and has to be controlled. One is only popular at Christmas, the other accepted at all times of the year. The reality is Poinsettia are cultivated at Christmas but, with the right care and maintenance they can continue to perform as an effective houseplant the following year. it is a good idea not to over water and the plant is not over-keen on extreme temperature changes. Very hot or very cold. Since they are grown in controlled conditions, it seems when they need to adapt to varying climates i.e. people’s homes, they are not very good at coping with this change. Allow adequate drainage as this will always alleviate overwatering and minimise the risk of root rot. Keep it out of a drafty/exposed spot and ensure it gets plenty of sunlight. It will need some respite in darkness – almost half of the day of natural light and half the latter.

Alchemilla mollis is only unpopular because it seeds and spreads so quickly. Lady’s mantle is a perennial that provides foliage and flowers. Cut them back and possibly achieve another swath. This will also procure new young growth. This plant performs in shade where others wouldn’t. The biggest drawback is that it self seeds and does need dead-heading to control it. It is, however hardy, effective at filling gaps in beds and cracks, so a good choice for ground cover in poor soil.

Ivy is so very invasive. It does provide ground cover and can hide a multitude of sins. There are 12-15 species, some cultivars, so not all wild. However, it is the decimation of other neighbouring plants nearby which puts it into bad repute. It has a devastating effect on unsound brickwork and can compound problems already in situ. Similarly, Hypericum Calycinum (St John wort) won’t behave. It acts as great ground cover but doesn’t stop where it should. Its root system is highly developed and very difficult to eliminate once established. Cotoneaster, an upright and ground cover shrub that is highly resilient, it provides berries, habitat and foliage all year round but can too be seen as a nuisance. Its habit seems to need to be controlled too. Unfortunately, the more virulent the growth of a plant, it seems the more it will waiver in and out of popularity. We want the growth, we just don’t want it all!

Bathroom Plants

House plants generally cope with a rise or flunctuation in temperature. Plants recover from excessive heat, lack of light often and can tolerate a week or two of absence/TLC. What they may not be able to tolerate is a constant source of steam, condensation and excessive moisture in the atmosphere. This is why perhaps there are certain plants are suited to the Bathroom and others not.

Often if you replicate the atmosphere of the plants natural environment you can’t go wrong. Plants of a tropical nature obviously prefer a more humid environment. Succulents, fleshy thick stemmed plants that retain water like Houseleeks or Cacti will tolerate some moisture, but tend to rot if over saturated.

Ferns are an ideal choice. The plants within this genus tolerate shade, almost no maintenance and very little care. The humidity has no detrimental effect and more often than not these plants can get soaked on a daily basis.

Platycerium spp (Staghorn fern, Antelope fern). Leathery flat leaves that often droop and hang dependent on the species. Ferns differ from other plants, they multiply by their spores not seeds. Due to the variety of textures that can be had, the lack of flowers is no shortfall. The foliage offers the desired effect. The Staghorn fern will adapt and often thrive with almost no light and moderate moisture. The soil, however, is important and needs to be humus rich. It needs a generous amount of nutrients.

The (Maidenhair fern) Adiantum Spp. is also commonly used because of these characteristics. Unlike the Staghorn it has very delicate fine leaves but copes well in a shady and highly humid location. It does like sun but will show signs of scorching if over faced with direct sunlight. It seems to adapt well in rising or falling tempertaures but not an extreme shift. It will not thank if exposed to a chilly corner or one where its battered by drying winds.

Chlorophytum comosum (Spider Plants) are popular too since they largely suffer no major problems and are generally disease free. There are green/variegated kinds, both are straightforward, require almost no care and are reliable assets in the bathroom. They can cope with over watering but on a sporadic basis. The plant will not thank if too wet, the roots can easily rot.

There are plants that can improve the air quality and absorb certain chemicals in the atmosphere. As a rule, succulents can get over saturated in these conditions. Aloe Vera, however, is one that can be used since they can tolerate humidity and are so easy to look after. The plants demise can often be root rot so don’t over water as a rule and treat rather like a cactus. It will source its own water if needed. Aloe Vera need a substantial amount of light and will only tolerate light and infrequent shade.

Aphelandra Spp. (Zebra Plant) a silver veined plant, tropical in orgin, it prefers a warm moist environment. It will not tolerate going below 20 degrees so can be quite a challenge. It also demands full sunlight and so not suited to a typical bathroom that may not have a window. If its demands are met it will provide the most striking of foliage and blooms yearly. A. aurantiaca – a red flower. A squarrosa – a yellow.

Another plant used that purifies the atmosphere is Sansevieria trifasciata (Mother in Laws Tongue) which will tolerate partial sunlight. It’s habit will ensure it doesn’t encroach on space since its leaves are upright. It has attractive yellow edged leaves. Again, do not overwater. Less is more.

Bromeliads, a number of plants that absorb moisture from the atmosphere and not the soil. The plants can cope with humidity but still need the air to circulate. Bromeliads remove toxins too, but at night time, so combining it with a standard foliage plant will provide your home with 24 hour purification.

Trail/Ground/Creeping Plants

Aubretia are small and low growing but their colour makes up for it. A spring flowering trailer. It can also be incorporated in a rockery. It prefers drier conditions so drought tolerant. It is attractive to beneficial insects as a bonus too.

Lobelia is usually a summer flowering annual but they are perennial varieties. These will need some maintenance to prevent them from becoming leggy. The upright type L. ‘Starship scarlett’ will need to be cut back and divided to rejuvenate the plant. The bedding trailier will provide you with a cascade of colour until the 1st frost.

Phlox can be mat forming and upright. A hardy perennial that can be divided or propagated from cuttings. P. paniculata is the most common variety with many cultivars ranging from Oranges, Reds, Pinks and Blues. P. subulata is the variety for ground cover/trailing. The plant flowers from different times of the year. Some early summer through to autumn.

Erodium (Storksbill – related to the Geranium) A hardy variety that provides flowers and distinct foliage, very robust and will offer resilient cover. Erodium x variabile ‘Roseum’/ ‘Bishops form’ – a small alpine on its own, it is clump forming but a cluster of them will create a carpet of colour from the beginning of summer to the end.

Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis) offers pink white flowers in early spring. This plant does prefer a good nutritious base so a humus rich soil is ideal. The whole structure should have some substance. Take note where it is positioned though, its root system being underground but close to the surface. Its storage organ is a Rhizome – it only slightly protrudes. It will not be visible until it resurfaces so digging up can be so easy.

The Serbian Bellflower is excellent cover for the ground, walls and rockeries. C. poscharskyana ‘Blue waterfall’ will provide a trail of colour from early summer to late. It needs little attention and highly effective in encouraging beneficial insects.

Hardy Perennials

In the midst of winter, what better way to find colour in those bleak periods but from smaller hardy annuals/perennials. These plants will provide an array of colour at the front of borders with next to no bother. The perennials will re-appear the following year and the annuals after flowering will have set seed elsewhere.

Cyclamen coums are early and often can be seen alongside Snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis), although Cyclamens flower for a longer period. Snowdrops are known to flower for a matter of weeks. The storage organ of the Cyclamen (Corm) allows you to divide over time and multiply numbers. It flowers from late winter to spring.

Bellis is a good ground cover plant for edges and effective in containers. The perennial will flower in autumn. It is effective in most aspects and can cope with exposed areas. It has a tendency to self seed so dead-head to avoid unecessary growth.

Pansies are not strictly perennial but they can come back and often do. It will flower in late winter to spring. It’s smaller cousin Viola shares the same growth habit.

Hellebore (Lentern/Christmas Rose) will flower in winter (usually but there are exceptions). It is generally an easy perennial to look after save very wet soil. The uplifting flowers on the darkest of days. They in fact prefer semi shade.

Primrose/Polyanthus are similar to the Pansy. They often come back and bring colour year after year often improving in their performance. It can be bought as a bedding plant but it will provide you with winter colour right through till spring.

Another spring flowering perennial that often is overlooked is the wallflower. It is hardy and is often incorporated with spring bulbs. It flowers March onwards usually but can be planted in the winter months. Effective in cracks of walls hanging down or in containers.

Bamboo Shoots

Bamboo can come in a variety of sizes, habits, makeup and be used for a wide range of purposes. Screening, windbreaks down to dwarf planting interspaced with ornamental grasses. While strictly speaking a Bamboo is a true grass (Poaceae family), we tend to class the ornamental varieties as such and Bamboo as a tree.

Fargesia murielae (Umbrella Bamboo) is one variety that tends to get used for hedging. It is quick to establish itself, bushy habit providing substantial foliage all year round. It can be crossed with another Fargesia (nitida) which fuses the best of both plants. The thick foliage and attractive canes. Usually an X is indicative of a hybrid or when two plants have been crossed. There are large, thickset Fargesia but some can have quite delicate foliage – F. nitida Gansu ‘Shadow Light’ with its purple canes and F. nitida ‘Volcano’ with its red to black. For dense coverage, there is Fargesia robusta too – a reliable variety that is shade tolerant.

Phyllostachys nigra (Black bamboo) will give you dense foliage and ideal for attractive screening but standing alone it can offer architectural benefits to a garden. Startling results can be achieved with its shiny black canes. Phyllostachys humilis, green in appearance, has an upright habit but more compact. It doesn’t grow as tall but often used as hedging/screening.

Fargesia ‘Black Dragon’ is recommended for this reason. It has a tight clump forming habit with interesting black to purple canes which means it’s effective in standing alone.

The smaller varieties like Pleioblastus are more feathery in appearance but no less invasive. They can be a problem as ground cover. This growth is particularly aggressive with neighbouring plants and often underground. Pleioblastus chino ‘Elegantissimo’ is a good choice for a shaded spot but its root system spreads sideways so probably better in a container or where it can spread. These often need protection from the elements and prefer a sheltered aspect. A small, vigorous growing cousin Sasaella masmuneana albostriata can equally be a problem. In the right place, it can spread so quickly. Having said this, the white striped hairy bamboo is clump forming, very attractive, hardy and offers a energy source to beneficial insects so does have some redeeming qualities.

Ornamental grasses like Miscanthus (the Poaceae family) share clear similarities with softer bamboos. Miscanthus offer plumes of white flora through mid summer and foliage interest into winter, while they are easier to look after and less dominating of their space, Pleioblastus viridistriatus can rival this with its variegated foliage. It offers interest all year round adding green striped, golden yellow leaves to its landscape. As long as the space is adequate and side shoots are kept in check, bamboo’s have a lot to offer.