Wind Tolerance.

Usually with a windbreak, whether live or inert, plants can withstand some thrashing. However, for prevailing winds some plants will stand their ground and wait for it. They do not mind a battering and strangely their makeup has been designed for it. A lot of the time their habit and shape of leaves/bracts is relevant. Often grasses are very good and those specimens that are drought tolerant.

Miscanthus sinesis ‘Zebrinus’ (Zebra Grass) – In full sun these ornamental plumes do very well. Late summer into early autumn. Creamy fountain of grass with upright habit. Known for whistling in wind as other Miscanthus.

Pennisetum rubrum (Purple fountain grass) – In full sun will provide a cascade of purple foliage streaming foliage through other contrasting grasses. The shape can almost allow the wind to go through them and not at them.

Stipa tenuissima – is an evergreen which in full sun will work with other grasses and herbaceous perennials. A hardy ornamental grass that is hardy and relatively low maintenance.

Berberis thunbergii – the barberry bush is a good staple shrub. It is a relatively hardy and robust shrub although at times to manage is a bit uncomfortable. A shear now and again is all that is necessary to keep its habit. It can be used in an unconventional hedge since pruning will make it denser. You will find foliage of green and a deep plum in varieties.

Cordyline australis (Cabbage Palm) is a good foliage plant but to probably keep to a container since you may have to move if the cold spells come. It is hardy to an extent maybe -9 so if sheltered or in good conditions will remain evergreen even with a bit of help.

Rosa Rugosa – a vigorous almost wild rose will live in the most of barren of environments. A fusion of our choice specimens and the wild variety. Very robust, very low maintenance. Can act as a shrub in its own entirety or as part of a hedge. Very resilient to all elements and very easy to look after.

Not a fan of conifers although many different sizes, habits and qualities, they are still worth a mention. A juniper bush or ground cover variety is a good choice for something of interest. Juniperus ‘squamata’ a blue grey variety which is hardy, tolerant of little care and will sit in quite problematic conditions. Full sun or partial shade and exposed or sheltered. Juniperus x media ‘Carberry gold’ a low dense habit which will provide you with equally lovely green-yellow foliage. Again its dynamics are quite easy going and will take full sun or partial shade and most importantly exposed.

Shrubs for Confined Spaces.

Despite having limited space startling results can be achieved using dwarf shrubs that retain a compact habit. They will provide flowers and foliage throughout spring, summer and longer. They are identical in effect to their larger counterparts.

Syringa ‘Boomerang’ – a dwarf Lilac providing two shows, one in early and one in late summer. These specimens are deciduous but are hardy so can stay in situ. They need full sun though. A highly scented choice. It requires little pruning just a trim to retain it shape.

Azalea ‘Dwarf Orange’ – an evergreen variety needing full sun and flowers in late spring. A hardy variety too and can be grown alternatively in containers. It is a slow growing shrub and although it’s flowers aren’t scented the shrub is very happy in most aspects. There are scented varieties but dwarf varieties not commonly used for aroma but for their flora. The larger varieties tend to be scented and be closer related to the Rhododendron. And whilst an Azalea is a Rhododendron, it is not true of the other way.

Gardenia jasminoides – These need to be in partial shade ideally but can cope with full sun. An evergreen known for it deep leaves and highly scented flowers. It is slow in growth but if space is an issue this is probably better. It will flower in late summer to early autumn. It is hardy but dependant on location may need to put in sheltered spot, so in a container may be more sensible unless your climate is mild.

Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Munchkin’ or ‘Sike’s dwarf’ – An attractive leaf and offers a show from summer to late. Has a compact habit and generally robust. The foliage will turn a rosy shade in autumn. Its needs are not specific and will work in most places, exposed too.

Acer palmatum ‘Shaina’ – A dwarf Acer that offers deep foliage through the seasons. Although more medium sized than small, a comparatively dwarf variety judging by how large they can be. It is quite slow growing so will take time to get to maximum size. Avoid full sun, it will burn the leaves or at the least provide some shade for it throughout the day. It is fully hardy but has no flowers so for foliage effect.

Hebe’s can be rather under – represented but these plants offer both foliage and flowers throughout all seasons. They are generally hardy, mostly evergreen and nearly all are disease free. Some varieties flower in summer but in winter too. Attractive leaves in a compact mound with often spikes/tubular racemes from the centre. Hebe ‘Wiri mist’ a late spring to summer offering whites spikes. A tough variety and fairly resilient to pests/diseases. Hebe ‘Midnight sky’ an evergreen variety which can flower early summer but offers deep foliage through autumn into winter. Hebe ‘Mrs Winder’ that will bear mauve flowers and takes the colour from summer right into winter.

Ground Cover

Ground cover can come in useful where you have an awkward embankment where mowing would be difficult, strimming time consuming or where you weren’t planning any shrubs. The incline might make it a balancing act to weed and keep in check. Carpet covering and mat forming ground cover can provide foliage interest and little maintenance since it’s fit for purpose.

Cotoneaster horizontalis is the most commonest used since the species is very robust and hard wearing needing little or no maintenance and provides for berries for birds and wildlife.

Juniperus squamata a prickly one but for good reason. Very low growing and good as a deterrent for those leaving their waste behind. A low growing but with an arched habit. Blue carpet provides a good alternative to weeding leaving a colourful silver – blue hardwearing cover. It is very hardy and gives effective colour all year round. It tolerates full and partial sun, good in free draining soil when it is established and drought tolerant.

Isomata fluviatilis (Blue star creeper) it is a perennial but with good results (perennial meaning it dies back). However, it provides a mass of flowers from late spring into autumn. It is part of the campanula family – it needs warmth and full sun. It is tolerant of exposed sites but does not sit well in wet conditions. A favourite in moist but not saturated. Also very effective in cracks providing an abundance of colour and hiding a “multitude of sins”.

Phlox subulata (Creeping phlox) is a perennial that is very easy to grow. The spring flowers come in an array of colours Reds, Pinks, Whites and Purples. Cutting back the top will encourage new growth and prevent the plant from becoming leggy. The perennials are shallow rooted so the stem should not go deep under the surface just at the soil level will be fine. The foliage will provide all year round interest and the flower from spring to summer.

Pachysandra terminalis (Japanese Spurge) An evergreen that foliage will sits well all the year and provides star shaped flowers in summer. Versatile due to its liking to cold and warm areas. It is equally good in exposed and sheltered locations. ‘Green Carpet’ has particularly interesting leaves.

Stachys byzantina (Lambs Ears) this covering evergreen provides a superb cover in a gap or possibly an area too small for a shrub and too big for a bedding plant. It is commonly known as Lambs ears from its velvety and beautiful silvery exterior. It flowers in summer, every season other than winter you can enjoy the foliage. It needs a full sun position but exposure to the winds and other elements it is tolerant.

Evergreens

Specimen shrubs are the backdrop to a successful scheme. General practice is to put larger specimens at the back/middle/sides and ensure adequate space is given in their new location. Smaller shrubs interspaced at the front and size gradually getting smaller.

It’s good to have some specimen evergreens interspaced – when the colour of flowers/berries have gone there is still something to look at when it’s bleak.

Photinia x frasei (Red Robin) has become a popular hedging plant in recent years. A shrub in its entirety really. Flowers in spring to early summer. Foliage all year round. Can be suited to a sun or partial setting. A hardy plant.

Ceanothus repens (Californian Lilac) deep blue flowers that are popular with bees and other beneficial insects. Flowers spring to early summer. Prefers a sunny position but will tolerate some shade. This needs to be in a sheltered position and not too exposed.

Choiya ternata (Mexican Orange blossom) two varieties of leaf – gold and lime. This shrub has the most fragrant flowers. Can tolerate a sun or shaded spot but not exposed, so ideally a bed by a wall. Normally will flower in late spring but if clipped can encourage a further flush.

Cistus (Rock Rose/Sun Rose) This evergreen shows a mass of flowers in summer. Usually the flowers are pink or white with flexs of red and yellow. A flower will last only a day but the blooms come so “quick and fast” you wouldn’t notice! It’s origins are Mediterranean so it does want full sun but is drought tolerant and quite resilient in these conditions. In a colder, wet environment it is not as tough.

Daphne tangutica is an evergreen variety with pink flowers. The shrub is highly scented and will flower through spring with berries in autumn. A good choice for sun or partial shade. Daphne do not tolerate exposure so by a wall is ideal.

Skimmia japonica is an evergreen which flowers in early spring. Quite effective as a staple shrub. Does not require a great degree of care and can cope with neglect. Partial shade is ideal. The leaves will suffer in full sun. The female skimmia will produce berries if a male is by the side.

Elaeagnus ebbingei has become a popular choice for hedging although for its merits it should stand alone. An evergreen, good in sun and shade, moist and dry. Pruning to just maintain desired shape so low maintenance. Mid – autumn onwards it produces fragrant flowers and its leaves have an opaque appearance. A very hardy choice as a hedge or shrub.

Sufficient Drainage

Other than plants intended for the pond, marginalised or oxygenating – species like to dip into moisture but not to sit in it. Lily of the valley, Daylilllies and Hibiscus can all tolerate more than enough moisture.

It is worth understanding then why the area is wet or over saturated. An ill drained area can be altered to improve water runaway so that the area is moist but drains. If the soil is compact this might be the reason for the accumulation of water. It might an option to install land drains or conversely change the consistency of the soil to allow water to penetrate.

Cornus do well in moist areas and provide effective winter colour. Dogwood produces attractive foliage with white flowers so has a purpose all year around. Very easy to keep and most aspects are adapted to. Easy to prune, a couple of inches from base and it comes back up in Spring.

Spring flowering Kalmia do well in these conditions with a good degree of light. As long as the sun is shining on the species, the plant can sit in moisture. It can tolerate partial shade as long as the soil has some drainage and on the acidic side which is why it goes well with Camellia’s and Rhodendrons. Little pruning is necessary but have a tendency to become leggy. A clip to keep its shape but is slow to grow out of control.

Some Salix alpine varieties will cope with some saturation as will Betula pendula, the silver birch, although some drainage is still needed. Hydrangeas are probably one of a few plants that devour H20. However, Hydrangeas cannot sit in it either as to do so would kill them rather quickly. They prefer cool, moist and shaded spots. A smaller water lover is a certain grass, Carex. This is usually in planting combinations with other ornamental grasses so often doesn’t lend itself to a pond location.

There are smaller species like Hostas (a rich and acidic soil for these plants) and Ferns (generally anywhere) that sit well in moist areas but again a crown rot issue can arise if proper care not taken of them. A grass that goes well with Hostas is Hakonechloa macra, it doesn’t mind moist soil but it must be well drained. Monarda – well drained, Rudbeckia – well drained. The problem of moist not wet still resides. Liriope too is resilient of tough conditions and can cope with full shade but not over saturated soil. It still needs to be well drained.

Nothing would be better than probably addressing the problem unless you want to create an actual bog or marsh area for Bull rushes, Gunnera, Irises and alike and even here there needs to be a degree of drainage. Not too much seems to survive in a pool of water.