Fake Fruit

Although their names assume a fruit, some of these plants don’t produce any. The ones that do provide effective blossom in the early months and a food source at autumn time.

Mock Orange – Philadelphus – a highly scented large shrub / small tree. It prefers a full sun aspect; good soil too. It flowers in spring although has no leaves in dormancy so only seasonally interesting. The soil needs to have substance but be free draining. It does not tolerate being soaked either.

Mexican Orange Blossom – Choisya – A spring flowering shrub. Different varieties have varying leaves of shape and colour. ‘Sundance’ light green and ‘Aztec Pearl’ dark, narrow and pinnate in shape. This is a shrub that will tolerate some shade and offers spring flowers that are heavily scented. Both attractive foliage and flora. It’s an evergreen, so all year provides colour.

Ornamental Cherry Blossom – Prunus serrulata – an upright tree that is quick to establish. It flowers in spring although has no fragrance. A full sun aspect is preferred. Though its decidious (leaves fall off), this tree provides the biggest of white flora in May.

The Japanese Apricot – Beni chidori – Prunus mume – a highly scented specimen offering flowers late winter into spring. It flowers when there are no leaves. It does fruit in summer, but you wouldn’t eat them voluntarily – good for wildlife though. A sheltered site is preferred so exposed areas are not ideal.  This tree needs full sun; the soil free draining too.

Prunus incisa ‘frilly frock’ – a smaller variety with white flowers early in spring. Its habit is weeping and suited to a smaller space. It prefers sun but will tolerate some shade. As long as it’s in well drained soil, it accepts most medias.

Pyrus salcifolia ‘pendula’ – its flowers offer attractive white blooms in mid spring, autumn fruit and interesting opaque / frosted leaves. It bears no edible fruit although there is a yield. No fragrance to speak of either. It needs full sun to effectively perform.

Malus baccata – crab apple – offers highly scented flowers for beneficial insects and berries for birds. It’s very resilient and can withstand a poor environment, an exposed location and little maintenance.

Malus spectabilis – a chinese flowering apple blossom – will offer flowers early spring, fruit early autumn. Its flowers attract beneficial insects.

Silver Shades

One colour can become so striking when offset against silver foliage. If the plant produces a flower, that’s a bonus. But purely for their leaves, these plants are effective.

Perovskia atriplicifolia – (Russian sage) ‘Blue spire’. This plant is ideal in a sunny position in well drained soil. It is highly scented too. It will flower through summer into early autumn.

Lavendula – Lavender offers attractive foliage, flowers and scent. French and English both look different in characteristics. French Lavender is inclined to a lime based soil that has plenty of air circulating around. It doesn’t bode well in compact, clay based medium. English Lavender similarly likes a free draining, light soil and neither keen on sitting in moisture.

Cineraria (senecio) a compact sub shrub. Adds a neutral tone to contrast with stronger colours. A bedding accompaniment more than anything. These can propagated by seed / bought in plugs. These are only really for one year bought in bloom and then discarded as opposed to a perennial.

Stachys byzantina (Lambs Ears) ‘Silver Carpet’ – this plant offers texture and colour to an herbaceous border. It prefers dry conditions and will not tolerate being over watered. It is a hardy evergreen, can cope in exposed conditions. It’s a foliage plant so there are no flowers.

Caryopteris (Blue beard) – a mid to late summer perennial shrub. There are various kinds but there is a silver green ‘Blue mist’. Its performance largely depends on how much light it gets, so a full sun position is recommended.

Helichrysum italicum (Curry plant) – as you would expect a highly scented shrub. It prefers to be in a sheltered position but generally resilient to most conditions. It doesn’t like being wet, so well drained soil is advisable.

Juniperus horizontalis ‘squamata’ or ‘Blue Chip’. An effective source of ground cover. The plant needs little maintenance although the aspect should be in full sun. The soil can be sandy, but not poor. It does prefer a degree of fertility. A very hardy, resilient shrub.

Variegated Plants

To achieve consistent interest in your space throughout the year, an easy method would be to incorporate variegated foliage. All year round, you will be provided with beautiful leaves, flowers as a bonus and offering a hardy canvas for bulbs, perennials and bedding.

Hebe – Hebes flower between summer and autumn – purple / blues mostly. The aspect is not particularly important although Hebes don’t like prevailing winds or exposed areas. The wind damages the foliage. The plant needs some shade but sheltered is the key. It is not a terribly hardy plant, may need a degree of protection in severe conditions. It’s suited to a container, so be moved to an insulated / coveted wall if need be. Cut back dead, diseased and damaged after frosts.

A particularly interesting Miscanthus ‘zebrinus’ (Zebra Grass) – it provides colour (green / yellow to pink and silver) throughout the year; textural qualities in winter too. The pruning is only necessary in spring, highly ornamental in all seasons. As a Miscanthus, it “whistles in the wind”, which adds a quirkiness to the garden. The new growth will start to emerge from the crown, this will indicate the grass is ready for pruning.

Aucuba japonica ‘crotonfolia’ – (Spotted Laurel). The spots, a result of a “friendly virus – “the mosaic” – it doesn’t harm the plant in any way and simply mutates its leaves. In the event of the plant reverting, cut the green out. It produces berries after the height of summer through to the next season. It is a very robust specimen. Good in all soils, aspects and conditions especially polluted air which makes it popular in urbanised areas or those with a high traffic content. No pruning, just unecessary / unwanted growth.

Other Bamboo / Sedges – Hakonechla macra / Carex variegata / Pleioblastus fortunei (Bamboo, sedges and grasses) – related but very different in habit. Most the pruning is in spring but some die back in winter. Hakonechla is mound forming, stays relatively compact but decidious. Carex everillo, Acorus is evergreen and Pleioblastus fortunei is too. There are different species, growth habits, sizes for varying purposes. These too in a variety of colours. Pennistemon (not typically recognised as a sedge/grass) are tolerant to moderate frosts and although do like full sun, can tolerate partial shade. These plants do prefer well drained soil and not in a waterlogged environment.

Euonymous fortunei – ” Emerald ‘n Gold”. A hardy staple evergreen, there is a cream variety too. ‘Silver Queen’. Good with adverse conditions. (Poor soil, light and water). These plants can be used as groundcover – an embankment or difficult location (very good as a weed suppressant). The plant does revert to its green state, you need to cut this unwanted foliage out to retain its variegation.”Colouratus” is the ground cover variety as a few others. The leaves turn a pinkish tinge if provided with full sun in autumn. The plant is very low maintenance, can cope with almost any soil without water or nutrients. It requires almost no pruning save unwanted growth.

Eleagnus ebbengeii offers the most eyecatching combination with their silver – green foliage mixed with Photinia as an evergreen hedge.  The plant is tolerant of little water, a drying atmosphere – so coastal areas, salt laden winds are fine. What Eleagnus don’t tolerate is the cold, so an exposed position is ok but with a good degree of sun.

Weeds

With gardening tasks, you need to take the “rough with smooth”. Weeds will always be there and someone needs to remove them. A back breaking, soul destroying job which leaves you feeling crippled. However, it’s necessary. It’s worth bearing in mind, you’ll never eliminate them although to leave them, you are inviting thousands more.

The treatment of weeds is an undecided one. You can manually remove or spray with selective weedkiller. It needs to be selective, not contact, it will differentiate from certain plants – chances of killing something significantly reduced. Contact will kill whatever it hits. Each year products get discontinued since most chemics, because of their purpose, have rather nasty things in them.

Horsetail is particularly difficult due to its structure. A prehistoric plant, it has adapted well to survive. It has non-penetrable membrane – a waxy coating – before treating it needs to be cracked or crushed to absorb whatever is applied. The stems are split in segments so if a small piece is left, the weed just re-establishes itself. It usually afflicts narrow cracks, broken paving and undisturbed land.

Self heal is a perennial although it seeds in lawns. It is a herb offering healing properties, it attracts beneficial insects too. It thrives in damp, humus rich soil that’s undisturbed. It’s not a weed until it pops up in the wrong place!

Willowherb has an attractive purple flower. Its growth is so prolific and its ability to survive anywhere, any condition makes it problematic. It seeds before it’s flowered so difficult to gauge when / where its dispersed. The weed pulls out very easily, it’s just the sheer volume that’s produced.

Chickweed prefers damp conditions with shade. It’s often found hidden under other foliage. It produces 1,000 seeds and spot weeding is just not practical. A light hoe will disturb the cycle. Chickweed is hardy, so in mild winters, the seed will not die off and lie dormant until spring.

Thistles, however difficult to manage are beneficial to butterfies / bees due to high nectar count, and also have medicinal qualities. The thistles have evolved as a defence mechanism from being eaten, improving its survival rate. It has to be regarded as a weed since it’s so invasive. It should be pulled out before it flowers. The plant is resilient in adverse conditions, by no means delicate as the flower suggests.

Broadleaf weeds generally have a tap root which makes them more difficult to eradicate. They can have fiborous roots but usually these are easy to control. These would include Dandlions, Clover, Daisies, Violets, Brambles too. By definition, a weed is a plant that shouldn’t be there. It is interesting to learn that Clover is growing in popularity as a lawn. It does benefit the soil, adding nutrients. Its flowers provide a food source for beneficial insects. It’s tougher and more drought tolerant than grass. Chamomile too, although other invading weeds will suppress its development. It does provide a scented carpet when crushed though. It does need a full sun aspect and the soil must be free draining.

Floral interest

An attractive bouquet of flowers are pleasing to receive, having a shrub giving continual flora for a period is a breathtaking sight. Plants provide you with colour all season long, flowers in such profusion. The plants blooms are their saving grace.

Magnolia soulangeana is a shrub that offers tulip shaped flowers fusing a number of colours together (pink, white and purple). It is scented, not hugely though. It flowers in spring, and can sometimes cusp over to summer. The plant is reasonably quick to establish but will keep its shape relatively well without much maintenance. The plant can cope with drought conditions although excessive light can damage flowers and leaves. The base needs a degree of protection, so a layer of bark, mulch or any organic matter will help retain its moisture and provide shade.

Magnolia stellata – the flowers couldn’t be more different but equally as eyecatching as soulangeana. The plant bears white, star-like, highly scented flowers. It is a hardy large shrub/small tree and its flowers appear before leaves like soulangeana. It prefers a sheltered spot due to the damage cold winds can cause. Therefore, a warmer aspect is advisable.

Azaleas are an acid loving shrub that flower in such profusion late spring into early summer. If in warmer climes – in extreme conditions all through summer. A number are scented but it’s the colour that makes them memorable. The plant is related to the Rhododendron.”You could say an Azalea is a Rhododendron but a Rhododendron is not an Azalea”. If you work that? It refers to an unresolved debate.

For Camellia, a dappled, partially shaded area is ideal. The plant is easily burnt by direct sun. C. sasanqua is the group that flower in autumn and usually more susceptible to winter damage. This kind tends not to be as hardy and requires some protection. The japonica’s and x williamsii are spring flowering, although the plant prefers some shade, if the base of the shrub is in shade the plant can tolerate being in direct sunlight.

A mountain shrub, they are resilient but do encounter problems. The browning of leaves, a discolouration and curling can be indicative of a fungal infection/scaley bug (evidence of this on underside of leaf) caused by too much moisture. Good drainage can alleviate these problems and other disorders linked with saturation. No direct sunlight and free draining soil is a must.

Daphne Odora Aureomarginata is a heavily scented specimen which will provide fragrance and attractive foliage through spring (some species or year round). The soil is better on the chalky side, this being alkaline but provides you with a plethora of colour. It needs some shade but a sunny spot is desired to really thrive. The only maintenance really is to retain shape.

Hydgrangeas make marvellous cut flowers. Pink, blue and some are white. The oak leafed (Hydgrangea quercifolia) is more resilient and perhaps more attractive in its foliage, good in drier conditions and more robust than the typical variety. If you leave them later than after they have flowered, you might think of spring to give them a crop. It takes some of the buds away but the plant will thank you. It won’t get woody and regenerate new growth. Cut all non – generative growth out or stems that appear to have no life before and after blooms.