Author: gardenspast123

I’m a Craft Gardener with over 20 years of hands-on experience in professional gardening and soft landscaping. As the internet continues to reshape gardening advice, forums, and consultancy services, horticultural knowledge is constantly evolving—making it more important than ever to share proven techniques and alternative approaches to pest control, plant diseases, and weed management. Even the smallest adjustments to garden aspect, soil preparation, planting, or pruning can have a major impact on a plant’s health, vigour, and long-term lifespan. Through my gardening blog and online advice, I aim to educate, motivate, and inspire gardeners of all levels—from complete beginners to experienced green-fingered enthusiasts.

ROGUE PLANTS

by gardenspast123, posted in Flowers, Foliage, Horticulture, Perennial

There are certain plants that rarely work well where you put them. In fact the growth can be rather prolific where you least expect them.

Lily of the valley (Nolinoideae) is one although it is good ground cover wherever it emerges. It never really grows in its intended spot. Or seldomly. A woodland perennial it will tolerate shade and is prolific in these areas. Few nutrients and attention. It is drought tolerant to an extent but it would prefer some moisture.

Crocus (Iridaceae), a spring flowering bulb will also pop up where you least expect. Crocuses are very resilient. The plant does grow in a woodland environment but it’s not tolerant of total shade and needs some sunlight. It is spring flowering and low maintenance save periodically dividing not only to propagate but regenerate the plant.

Primula (Primulaceae) is a primrose that doesn’t mind some shade although not full. The soil too needs to be on the fertile side and will not grow in particularly poor soil or do well. The soil needs to be light though needs to have some substance. It mustn’t get waterlogged either, hold enough moisture but be free draining. These conditions aren’t particularly straightforward.

Polyanthus (Primulaceae) also a primrose is very similar and flowers in spring. It can left in the ground or moved / distributed when its divided. The biggest difference is it has more flowers on each stems so the cluster appears bigger. It prefers a more dappled woodland environment. It’s been mooted that a primrose crossed with a cowslip and as a result has become a hybrid

Crocosmia / Monbretia – Valentine flower (Iridaceae) can be planted in one space. A perennial too. It will die back and re surface the following year, a summer flowering perennial. It can be orange, yellow or red. Monbretia is just another more traditional name. More associated with red for some reason. Perhaps the parent before cultivars and hybrids. These clusters can be divided and propagated effectively. Very easy, just cut back dead growth and it will return. It needs a degree of sun though and relatively dry soil, not waterlogged, compact or heavy.

Oat grass (Poaceae) A grass that is said not be invasive. The seeds from the plumes do germinate. An ornamental grass where you usually would cut it to the ground. Divide it to keep the shape, size and vigour of growth.

Everything that disperses its seeds, pollinated by birds / wind / insects can be invasive. It’s perennials on the whole since they have time to establish themselves, source the energy and develop underground. A bigger specimen will never come true, a little “rogue” seedling can be pulled out within seconds.

END OF SEASON

by gardenspast123, posted in Horticulture

As the summer season draws to a close, what should we cut back? Is this everything or a particular plant that may benefit from a prune. Plants that flower off last years growth such as Forsythia, it’s good practice to cut back immediately after flowering not only to curb them becoming invasive but it can affect next years flowering.

Rose of Sharon – (Hypericum calycimum) – this particularly invasive perennial needs to be cut to the base and any unwanted growth removed. It is a part of the Hibiscus family but this common one should be treated as a weed, however lovely the yellow flowers appear. If it is starting to encroach on neighbouring plants, it is worth digging some of out to reduce its size and control its growth. It will come back so a case of managing this.

What is necessary to do is to cut the herbaceous perennials down and start removing the dead growth around them. This housekeeping is important to remove dead growth, apply protection like mulch if it needs it, reduce disease and prevent pests sheltering over the winter. These plants go to sleep underground and above the surface appear dead or dormant.

Russian sage – (Perovskia atripicifolia) – this perennial is so easy to look after. It is drought tolerant, attracts beneficial insects and has a beautiful fragrance. So simple to cut back. A similar perennial is Nepeta. It has the same sort of habit. Marginally lighter purple. It is very low maintenance and once in situ withstands neglect.

Catmint (Nepeta) A perennial that likes sun. It’s long flowering so may be still in bloom. It is low maintenance and only requires cutting back. Do this shortly after flowering but reshape, don’t cut it right back.

Coral Bells – (Heuchera) (Forever purple) or green foliage (Delta dawn). This is great for filling in a gap although do make sure the soil is free draining. They do not sit well in water. A clump forming perennial offering yellow flowers through the course of late spring to early summer. Cut off spent dead growth and expose young shoots.

Hollyhocks – (Alcea) – A hardy perennial that needs full sun. It is important to have rich moist soil too. Pull the canes out and cut to the base. High winds will only break the stem and all the goodness has gone to the ground. Hollyhocks lifespan can be extended by cutting it down immediately after flowering or they can regenerate themselves and self seed too.

Delphiniums are hardy specimens, easy to grow, but not so much in poor soil. A reliable summer flowering perennial. The position needs to be a little sheltered and the soil needs to be fertile. With Delphiniums we can achieve a bold statement of purple, blues, lilacs and whites. Delphiniums do need full sun so worth remembering not for a chilly corner either

Bergamot (Monarda) can be cut down and dead growth removed. A summer flowering perennial. It is hardy offering a scented fragrance from its leaves. It is drought tolerant and will perform in light shade.

Crocosmia/Monbretia – These perennials are clump forming and can become invasive. These perennials however will perform in any kind of soil, any aspect, any consistency. They procreate on their own so pulling a few rogue ones out will do any harm. These perennials are very hardy. There is no difference in the name – Monbretia is more traditional.

Woody shrubs to treat now, the following or left until spring. They require a little more of an explanation so “shrubs” will follow this.

Spirea – mound forming shrub in summer. Cut back to a neat shape to encourage new growth in spring. These shrubs prefer full sun but can tolerate some shade.

The flowering currant (Ribes Sanguineum) A spring – summer flowering shrub, which is accepting of most aspects. The soil needs to be water retentive but still free draining. It will benefit from nutrients in spring but quite tolerant of poor soils. It is important to take away superfluous growth but not all to encourage new growth. A good practice is to thin out crossing branches and leave a number of thick central stems. Cut to a leaf node and tidy.

The Butterfly Bush (Buddleia) and (Hydrangeas) certainly needs pruning but these can be left until spring. Over winter some argue that it helps protect the plant underneath. I don’t think it’s terribly important, If it doesn’t look un aesthetic in appearance, just leave. The important factor is that they are cut back. It regenerates growth and prevents them from becoming woody. Hibiscus too, although I tend to leave until spring. Although these woody shrubs will re generate from a prune. Leave these until spring.

Roses too can be cut down now- any dead, diseased and damaged stems if flowering has finished (although if you dead head you may still have flowers) in preparation for winter. In the event these are untouched shortly before adverse conditions leave until the spring. One or the other but not in between. Roses don’t need to be cut entirely but dead head and start to thin them out. A good practice to cut them a little more in spring and remove any stems haven’t regenerated after the adverse weather.

Shady spots

Featured by gardenspast123, posted in Flowers, Foliage, Horticulture, Shrubs

It can be a secluded spot in an open space that gets little or no sun. If we’re dealing with an NE/NW facing garden it can be in an area that is chilly / exposed to the elements. Any plant that’s in shade will generally grow slower but it’s worth knowing more plants tolerate these conditions than you’d think.

Daphne’s are known for their flowers / scent in the cooler months though they’re not hardy in extreme conditions. It can be partial shade provided there is some sunlight. It will flower from winter to spring. Daphne odora provides fragrant flowers / variegated foliage.

Rhododendrons, although tolerate full sun, prefer partial shade. Since they’re a woodland plant they often do well in poor soil. They will compete with other plants for moisture, although not to excess, so the soil needs to be free draining. The PH. is important and has a bearing on its performance too. They prefer an acidic soil as do Azaleas, an ericaceous base with organic matter, humus rich in substance.

Camellias prefer an acidic soil but these shrubs are OK in semi shade, not too chilly though. Camellia’s do prefer a warmer aspect, not particularly resilient to the cold, damaging winds. Most Camellias flower in early spring. These are C. japonica. The winter flowering variety, C. sasanqua needs protecting from the sun, cold dry winds – the more sheltered the better. C. ‘winter Star’, however, is hardy and early flowering. Camellia x williamsii is also hardier than C. japonica and flowers in winter. It is good in shade too.

Aucuba japonica (spotted laurel) is a good hardy shrub. It will withstand adverse conditions. It is an evergreen. It offers interesting foliage as a result of the mosaic virus. It is noting this is a friendly virus; doesn’t harm the plant, just mutates the colour. In order to retain this effect, cut out the reverting green growth.

Cornus alba (Dogwood) is very good in a shaded area and exposed conditions. C. canadensis particularly for shade, C. alba for exposed areas. It will provide flowers, foliage and attractive bark in the winter months.

Virburnum davidii is tolerant of sun and shade. A shrub that attracts beneficial insects and provides flowers, foliage and scent. It prefers well drained soil but generally very easy to maintain. It is worth noting it is not a tidy shrub. It has an informal role in a mixed border and will not stay compact. It’s not keen on being exposed so dark but not cold.

Mahonia ‘Charity’ and ‘Winter sun’ most common. These will flower from autumn, suited to a cooler environment. The shrub tolerates being in shade – a strong possibility for those difficult areas. It’s a hardy shrub and provides scented flowers / bursting colour in winter. There is no real pruning, just removing unwanted growth in spring.

Skimmia is an evergreen providing flowers, foliage and berries throughout the year. A scented flower in spring attracting beneficial insects, much needed berries throughout autumn / winter. They will tolerate most conditions; soil, aspect, adverse weather but again partial shade. Skimmia can become leggy so do cut out bolted growth and cut out any unwanted in spring.

Kalmia (Mountain Laurel) is a very good shrub for shade. It flowers in early summer. It does fruit but it’s the pink, purple, white flowers that form a delicate cluster. It needs to be in well drained soil, not an area that gets waterlogged. It also prefers an ericaceous soil – full of humus rich matter and on the acidic side. Also prone to root rot, so make sure the crown of the plant protrudes from the surface, similar to roses.

Sambucus nigra (Elder) this shrub will tolerate a shaded spot but like most plants do better in full sun. It does benefit from lemon scented flowers in summer although the foliage on its own is impressive. It produces berries as a food source; popular with birds. It is hardy, though decidious so it loses it leaves. The soil also needs to be humus rich, high in nutritutional substance so a sandy consistency maybe not. However, the soil can be conditioned so it’s not particularly an issue.

Perennials (Red, Yellow and Orange)

by gardenspast123, posted in Flowers, Foliage, Horticulture, Perennial

Colours that do often go well together are these hot combinations

Kniphofia (Red Hot Pokers) a structural addition to any mixed perennial bed. These, adding height, don’t need staking although they do prefer a sunny spot. These perennials are quite tolerant of dry conditions. They will need water but don’t sit well in wet soil so a well drained consistency is needed. Periodically, this perennial needs dividing to keep the vigour and flowering ability. The size also needs control. They can become invasive and do take up room.

Helenium (sneezeweed) offer interest to beneficial insects. This perennial is fully hardy and tolerates quite severe conditions. Although they look rather like a sunflowers they are not. This perennial prefers an acidic soil and flowers during the summer. These daisy like flowers will offer an enrichment of oranges, reds and yellows. It is clump forming so it can be divided. These are usually tall and suit most borders but H. ‘Mardi Gras’ needs to be at the front, it is smaller.

Monarda (Bergamot) the foliage is scented and beneficial insects love this. The soil needs to have substance but not water retentive, good drainage is needed. Its performance is dependent on full sun. M. ‘Cambridge scarlett’ however, will do well in shade. It will flower throughout summer into early autumn.

Hemerocallis spp (DayLillies) the flower that only lasts a day. However, the flowers come in such profusion, this perennial offers different flowering varieties with some quite early H. lilioasphodelus to late H ‘Frans Hals’. The cultivars have improved and now day lilies are more robust to adverse conditions and available in many more colours (hot) and (cold). A summer flowering perennial, its period is quite lengthy and doesn’t really require any attention, cutting back spent stems and maybe division in spring. This will produce more plants but their energy will be restored too.

Rudbeckia (Black eyed Susan) is a perfect addition to the perennial bed although these do prefer sun. Some partial shade is O.K. but not full, they will not do well in a chilly corner. You can divide although the seeds will come true too. It will flower throughout summer to maybe September in the right conditions. These perennials are hardy but if dividing do so this before winter (so they can acclimitise themeselves) or in spring after the cold snap. It is beneficial to do before but not essential.

An interesting discovery only recently unearthed is the Isoplexis plant. It is in fact a foxglove, but a tropical one. The canary island foxglove will provide you with a flowering period when most have ended. Late summer to early autumn. It is also effective in attracting beneficial insects. Strangely, for a tropical plant it is quite hardy tolerating temperatures – 5. It will need some protection certainly from cold winds though. It will give both attractive flowers and foliage. Full sun or maybe partial sun at the least.

A very hardy specimen which without fail will perform is Crocosmia / Mobretia as it is otherwise known as. There is common variety which does the job but there many cultivars now which have particular charcateristics. C. X Crocosmiiflora ‘George Davidson’ which has yellow flowers. C. ‘Emberglow’ which has a combined orange and yellow. C. ‘Lucifer’ is the most popular. The colours of red and orange will provide effective drifts in most perennial borders. It is a very hardy plant. It will survive in all conditions, all soils. It’s a “corm” so the cluster of tightly packed bulbs can easily be divided. Over the dormant period you might cut the spent growth off but otherwise self sufficient, you will probably find yourself reducing the cluster and pulling it out.