In a previous article mow not grow, we examined the steps to seeding a successful lawn. It can take some months so if the availability is there and you’re not strapped for cash laying turf is a method to use. To turf a lawn takes no time at all and the effect is instant.
However, it is a little more complex and the staple rules must be followed. A good idea also is not to lay the grass in hot weather. This is largely down to shrinkage which will be mentioned later.
Assess your ground. The surface area. Calculate one roll to one square metre. Evaluate what soil you have. Does it get waterlogged, the likelihood is it’s clay-based. This needs to be treated as you will find it difficult later to maintain (puddles in wet weather, soggy areas.) Does it dry out quickly, then it’s sandy. Again, difficulties in summer (patchy brown and little growth.) Grass can also be susceptible to disease and pests when it’s weakened.
The treatments to alter the soil are logical. If it is clay-based, you will have to break the soil up which can take time. You will eventually want fine soil on the back of a fork until the particles are broken. Walk the site with your feet stamping on the clumps of earth. A garden rake then applies pressure in a backward / forward motion until it’s a very fine tilth. It may even be an idea to filter some sand as well to make it more free draining.
If it’s sandy-based, you will substantiate the quality and bulk out the soil. This is achieved by adding organic material or screen soil (low quality) / topsoil (high quality). All these factors are important, it’s all in the preparation.
The level of ground is important and lulls and bumps should be eliminated or any unwanted unevenness.
The question of where to buy your turf is crucial. The turf stays fresh for up to 3 days. It should have been cut on the morning of delivery. This is relevant when you work out the likelihood of it being successful. Old turf is a false economy. So, make sure it’s fresh. Keep them in rolls as you start to work backward.
Do.
- Work backward and don’t return to the laid area.
- Use a plank to tamper the joins /lay the turf side by side overlapping where you knead it with a rake.
- Large pieces of turf around the outside.
- Use offcuts only in the middle or sparingly.
- Have a surplus for wastage (10%).
- Regularly water even in colder periods.
- Mow very high for the 1st time.
Don’t.
- Walk on the site.
- Mow until 2 weeks after showing signs of success.
- Leave any small gaps (the turf will shrink and sink as it is knitting together.
- Interfere with area.
- Use small pieces or avoid damaged / imperfect rolls.
Buying your seed is easy. There are several kinds available for different purposes. There is even shade-loving seed which before had been a common problem. Turf usually needs to be bought from a reputable firm to ensure the quality (Amenity.) Fine turf (fescue and meadow but with ryegrass.) Well, you don’t want to make life more difficult.
It takes more energy / more money / more focus but is certainly quicker to initiate. Seeding takes longer but is cheaper. You can do it all times of the year bar high summer. Seeding can often be laborious and sometimes the seed fails. Not for any error just because nature is volatile. It’s up to you how quickly you want it.
ZOE FURNISS 